Cesspool - how to build yourself. Construction and cleaning of a cesspool at a summer cottage

If there is no centralized sewage system next to the house, then arranging a cesspool can be considered as a solution to the problem. In any house where there is a hot and cold water supply, there is a problem of collecting and removing the sewage system.

A cesspool is the simplest option for sewerage in a private or country house, which you can do yourself.

Where should the cesspool be located

To start, you need to decide on the site, which will be equipped with a cesspool.

• directly on the site adjacent to a private or country house;
• possible arrangement at a distance of at least 10 meters from the foundation of a residential building and other buildings in the backyard area and to structures located in the neighborhood;

Important! This requirement is based on the fact that with a closer installation of a leaky pit without pumping out, the destruction of the foundations of nearby buildings, as well as their flooding, is possible.

• the distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated and must be at least one meter;
• the depth should not be more than 3 meters. When choosing, you need to take into account the depth of passage groundwater;
• the pit must be at a certain distance (25 meters) from drinking wells.

This distance depends on the type of soil in the backyard:

• With clay soil - no closer than 20 meters;
• With loamy soil - no closer than 30 meters;
• With sandy loam and sandy soil, the cesspool cannot be installed closer than 50 meters from the well.

Diy cesspool system

There are two main types of pit arrangement:

• sealed;
• usual without a bottom.

The option of arranging a sewerage system in a country or private house is determined by the location of the territory, the daily amount of wastewater and the material capabilities of the owner of the site:

• if the daily amount of wastewater is not more than one cubic meter, it is possible to build a simple system without a bottom and without pumping out. In a pit of this type, the wastewater partially goes into the ground, in which it is purified by anaerobic bacteria. An example of this cesspool is a classic country toilet;
• with a large amount of wastewater (more than a cubic meter), the construction of a sealed structure is required, which must be pumped out from time to time.

This requirement is explained by the fact that in the absence of a bottom in the pit, waste water passes into the ground and its cleaning is carried out by microorganisms located in the thickness of the earth. But their cleaning capabilities are not endless.

With large amounts of wastewater, microorganisms cannot cope with water purification. In this case, wastewater will begin to pollute the adjacent area and it is possible that it will pass into the water-bearing soil layers with further pollution of the drinking well.

If the disposal of a large amount of wastewater is required, you can consider the arrangement of a septic tank with filtration fields.

Do-it-yourself ordinary sewage pit

The simplest drainage system is done like this:

• digging a pit up to two meters deep, two meters wide and up to three meters long;
• the walls of the earth are laid or fixed;
• a layer of rubble is poured down;
• a protective cover with a cover is installed on top.

The main advantages of a pit without a bottom:

• ease of use;
• low cost of construction and operation;
• simple and quick DIY construction.

Disadvantages of a pit without a bottom:

• the groundwater level must be below the level of the sewage system;
• not suitable for the sewerage of a large amount of sewage water;
• environmentally unsafe;
• possible unscheduled filling due to rainwater;
• has an unpleasant odor.

Sealed waste pit

A sealed drainage system is a sealed container where sewage water is pumped through pipes. As the tank is filled, sewage water must be pumped out with a special machine.

The main advantages of a sealed system:

• the installation site does not depend on the type of soil on the site;
• does not depend on the passage of groundwater;
• environmentally friendly, sewage water does not flow into environment.

Cons of a sealed design:

• there is a smell if the drive is made in the form of a well;
• monthly costs (you need to periodically call a sewer truck for pumping out);
• relatively high construction cost.

What to build a drain pit with your own hands

Consider different types and methods of constructing drainage systems that you can do yourself. They are conventionally divided into permanent and temporary.

From car tires

If you need a flush system for a toilet in a country house at minimal cost, you can make it yourself using old car tires.

This is a quick and budget option for the construction of a sewer pit. The construction is pretty simple. A pit is made, where old tires are stacked one on top of the other. A layer of rubble is poured onto the bottom of the pit; if desired, the tires are sealed with a clay lock.

Advantages:

• if necessary, it is easily restored;
• durability;
• speed, simplicity and low cost of construction.

Disadvantages:

• tires undergo rotting over time;
• the possibility of a negative impact on the environment with a high load on the structure;
• quick silting up with insufficient cleaning and pumping, as a result, useful area is lost.

Of concrete rings

This is another way to quickly build a drainage system. It is similar in design to a well. The rings are stacked on top of each other. The joints between them, if desired, are sealed with a cement screed.

By its design, a sewer pit made of concrete rings is more of a sealed structure. That's why you need to pump it out regularly... Although there is an option to install a septic tank from concrete rings.

Main advantages:

• Convenience of a protective cover with a hatch;
• durability;
• the possibility of construction with your own hands;
• relatively low cost.

Disadvantages:

• the possibility of an unpleasant odor from the ventilation pipes;
• the need for periodic pumping;
• labor intensity of installation.

Brick drain pit

This is the most successful and optimal option if you need a flush system for a toilet or a bath in a country house.

Advantages:

• ease of construction - almost any summer resident will cope with laying bricks for a drain pit;
• environmental friendliness - the contents of the drain structure are periodically pumped out by a sewage machine.

Disadvantages:

• silting up. Silting can be prevented by constant pumping out of the liquid in the reservoir;
• relatively short service life (up to 20 years), as a result of the destruction of bricks in unfavorable conditions of the drainage system;
• from time to time the formation of an unpleasant odor is likely. To cope with this can help the use of various drugs that accelerate the processes of waste decomposition and timely pumping out of the drive.

Construction of a brick cesspool

First you need to decide on the location of the drain pit, observing all the rules and taking into account the ease of use.

Choosing a design. Taking into account the purpose, the drainage brick pit can be rectangular, square or round.

We calculate the required volume, dimensions and prepare the pit for the pit.

With a rectangular design, we tilt the bottom towards the installation of the hatch. At the bottom of the pit we pour a sand cushion with a layer of 20 cm and fill it with cement mortar. You can take a ready-made reinforced concrete slab of the required size. A cement screed is made on top.

We are laying the walls. The optimal wall thickness is 30 cm. It is advisable to lay the walls in a checkerboard pattern in half a brick. Laying in a quarter brick is possible.

Then, when the walls are ready, you need to treat them with bituminous mastic or make a clay lock from the outside for better sealing. If necessary, we will plaster the inner surface.

Installation of a hatch and ceiling

Then, when the base of the drain pit is ready, we install an overlap with a hatch. Overlapping is required not less than 50 cm close the pit around the perimeter.

In the role of overlapping, concrete slabs are chosen or logs are carefully laid. When arranging a cesspool, it is necessary to provide a location for the hatch. The hatch is made with a size of 70 cm.

On top of the overlap with a stele, waterproofing from a film or roofing material. We cover the waterproofing with a layer of slag or soil 0.5 m in size.

Attention! To protect against the appearance of odors from the drain pit and its freezing, the hatch into the pit is installed double. The top cover is located on the surface of the ground, and the other at the floor level. The space that appears in the bow is filled with heat-insulating materials (slag, expanded clay, polystyrene, etc.).

Sewer pit from a barrel

This is an excellent option for arranging water drains with your own hands with natural cleaning of the cesspool with small amounts of drains (up to 1 cubic meter).

Barrel preparation:

• we use a 200 liter barrel, best of all from a material that does not corrode, we make holes in the wall in a checkerboard pattern for drainage with a drill or grinder. It is advisable to make holes with a distance of 15-25 centimeters;
• tightly fasten to the bottom of the barrel a branch pipe for connecting the drain pipe. Silicone sealants can be used to provide a seal. We process the section of connecting the branch pipe with mastic;
• we wrap the barrel with geotextile and firmly fasten it with twine. This is necessary to ensure the protection of the container from the ingress of earth and other foreign particles into its structure, while maintaining normal drainage.

Installation of a cesspool sewer system:

• we make a trench and lay sewer pipes, certainly with a slope;
• we prepare a pit with a depth and size just above the depth of the barrel;
• down the pit we fill in gravel or crushed stone with a layer of 20 cm;
• put a barrel on this pillow and connect the drain pipe;
• the formed space between the walls of the pit and the container is filled with gravel or crushed stone;
• we attach the sewer pipe to the installed pipe.

Now the sewer hole for your bath is ready. You can also make a toilet drain with your own hands.

As an option for arranging a sewer home system, you can consider the device of a cesspool concrete drain pit.

Stages of construction of a concrete pit:

Using this technology, you can make a drain pit for a toilet with your own hands.

Summarizing

There are quite a few options to build a cesspool on your own. Choosing a specific solution, taking into account specific conditions and material capabilities. You can also consider installing a septic tank or buying a ready-made kit for arranging a drain pit.

Sump standards

Sanitary norms and rules and SNiP, as well as current legislation regulate the construction of these tanks. If we analyze regulations, then we can say that the correct cesspool must satisfy the following set of basic requirements.

The distance from the house to the cesspool must be maintained. If, then it should be 8-10 m away from it and from houses located on neighboring sites. In this case, the saturation of the soil with groundwater and the slope of the site should be taken into account. The distance from public buildings, playgrounds and institutions, residential buildings is more, not less than 20 meters.

The standards for the cesspool provide that it can only be used if the volume of effluent is in the limit of one cubic meter. This is due to the fact that with such volumes, natural bioremediation will be able to protect groundwater from pollution.

The norms for the placement of cesspools regulate the depth of this tank for collecting household waste. Its depth cannot exceed three meters, while it can be less in the case of shallow groundwater.

To prevent pollution drinking water the distance from the cesspool should be more than 20 meters. It is better if the well and the cesspool are located so that the pit is located downstream of the groundwater. The distance from the pit to the water pipes is also regulated, it depends on the material and diameter of the water pipes.

The cesspool must be airtight, and its surface part must have a cover. As it fills with impurities, the pit must be cleaned. It is forbidden to fill more than 35 cm from the level of the surface of the site. In this case, the minimum frequency of cleaning the pit is six months.

It is necessary to systematically disinfect the cesspool using solutions of sodium hypochlorite (3-5%), bleach (10%, use in dry form is prohibited), creolin (5%), naphthalyzole (10%), sodium metasilicate (10%).

At the first stage, the required dimensions of the cesspool, its type and location are determined. When calculating the volume of the pit, the number of people is taken into account, as a result of whose vital activity drains are formed. On average, this is 200 liters per person per day.

The type of structure is determined on the basis of the average daily volume of waste water, the depth of the groundwater and the location of the water intake facilities. All types of cesspools can be roughly divided into pits without a bottom and with a bottom.

The construction of a pit of the first type is possible if protection against the ingress of contaminants from sewage into the groundwater is fully ensured and when the volume of wastewater does not exceed a cubic meter. In all other cases, a do-it-yourself cesspool device with a bottom (completely sealed) will be required. The location of the cesspool is determined in accordance with the requirements of the standards described above.

Then, at the selected place, a pit for the pit is excavated. The optimum depth of the cesspool is no more than 3 meters. This is not only due to sanitary requirements. It will be difficult to pump out wastewater from a deeper pit. The shape of the pit, which means the foundation pit, can be rectangular, round, square.

Simultaneously with the pit, a trench is being dug for the drain pipe so that the pipe and the cesspool do not freeze in winter. The pipe should run at a depth of at least 1.2 meters (you need to look at the map of soil freezing) and have a slope of 3-7 mm per meter.

If the depth of the pipe is less than 1 meter, then it can be insulated with improvised heat-insulating materials (pieces of mineral wool, etc.). A variety of materials can be used to construct the walls and bottom of the cesspool:

• concrete and reinforced concrete rings;
• tarred wood;
• clay brick;
• ready-made tanks made of metal, special plastic;
• scrap materials, barrels or tires.

The last stage is the installation of the cesspool tank and the drain pipe, the installation of the cover and backfilling of the pit. The drain pipe is recommended to be made of PVC pipes. Any cesspool should be designed with ventilation to remove the methane.

Such a pit is settled mainly in summer cottages, for small volumes of wastewater formation (for 2-3 people). Service life is short - up to 10 years maximum.

For her, a narrow and deep pit is dug, with a diameter equal to the diameter of the wheels (with a gap of 5 cm) used for the walls of the cesspool. Before laying the tires, the bottom of the pit is covered with large gravel (30 cm layer) to prevent siltation.

The drain pipes are inserted into the holes cut in the tires. The top cover should be above ground level. The cover is a wooden or plastic shield. To ensure waterproofing of the tire, it is advisable to wrap it with polyethylene or roofing felt before installation.

The device of a cesspool from rings begins with a mechanized or manual excavation of a foundation pit. In the second case, a method can be used to remove the earth from under the concrete ring installed on the ground, which gradually settles down under its own weight.

The bottom of the pit is leveled, a sand cushion is created on it, which is then compacted. The bottom of the cesspool can either be cast from concrete, or special rings with a bottom can be used.

For complete pumping out of sewage in the future, the bottom must be made with a slight slope to the place where the hose of the sewage machine will fall. The last stage is the installation of a concrete floor with a hatch on the cesspool.

The construction of a brick cesspool also begins with digging a pit and arranging a sand cushion at its bottom. The bottom is concreted and covered with a screed made of a mixture of sand and cement. The alternative is a ready-made concrete slab. The shape of the brick cesspool can be either rectangular or round.

Brick laying on a concrete base is made in half a brick. To prevent filtration, a clay castle is made between the brick and the walls of the pit and (or) the walls are covered with bitumen mastic.

The inner surface of the cesspool is plastered. A reinforced concrete slab or thick logs are used as a ceiling with a hatch.

4

Modern urbanization has spoiled city dwellers with all kinds of amenities - gas pipelines, central heating, cold and hot water in the apartment and, of course, the sewerage system. But these circumstances do not mean at all that in the village or at the dacha it is impossible to use these conveniences.

A well-equipped sewerage system and a cesspool in a private house or in the country will help create conditions for a comfortable stay far from the city.

Regulatory documents have been created in Russia to determine the status of cesspools. They regulate the location of the cesspool on the site. According to SNiP, the cesspool should be located:

1. At a distance of 20 m from residential buildings.
2. The distance from the cesspool to any fence should be more than 1 m.

According to SNiP, the optimal place for the pit is selected. Also, when arranging a pit without a bottom, the distance to the source of drinking water should be more than 30 meters.

The dimensions of the cesspool are calculated based on the following parameters:

How many residents live in the house permanently. The average daily rate of water consumption per person is 150-180 liters. For 30 days, a family of 2-4 people consumes up to 12 m 3 of water, which enters the cesspool.

Taking into account the stock, the cesspool for 3 people should have a volume of about 18m 3.

Influence of soil behavior on the site. This factor is used as follows: if the soil contains porous rocks, then the volume of the cesspool can be reduced to 40% of the monthly water consumption.

If the soil for the most part consists of rocks that are poorly permeable to water, then the volume of the pit should exceed the drainage rate by 20-30%.

Optimally, the depth of the cesspool should be more than 3 meters. The cesspool requires periodic cleaning, and the help of the sewer service cannot be avoided, but you can make the pit deeper, and then it will be possible to pump out the drainage water once a year, or even less often.

If the design of the cesspool is sealed, then you will have to pump out water 1-2 times a month.

If you are not confident in your strengths in construction, then we recommend using construction services in Yekaterinburg, they build houses, gazebos and much more, everything on a turnkey basis.

Budget tire cesspool

Car tires - what could be simpler and more economical to build a cesspool?

Since the disposal of automobile rubber is an expensive pleasure, it will not be difficult to get such tires, and many service stations will also pay extra if you ask them for 8-12 pieces.

That is how much you need to build a cesspool from tires.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands using tires?

1. Pick tires of the same thickness and diameter. Calculate how many tires are needed, calculating the depth of the well 2.5-3 meters.

Along the contour of the tire, you need to mark the contour of the pit. This should be done at a distance of at least 5 m from the house. Add another 10-20 cm to the diameter of the hole so that the tires pass freely into the hole, and start digging with a regular bayonet shovel. It is more convenient to throw out the earth with a shovel.

Going deeper into the ground, change the shovel to another, with a longer handle, so as not to sink into the hole, as it will be too narrow for you. The edges of the shovel must be bent so that it is more convenient to take the earth at great depths.

2. After preparing the hole in its center, you need to drill a drainage well. This can be done with a regular garden drill. Drainage is needed so that water goes into the ground better and faster, so you need to drill all waterproof layers - loam, etc.
3. A drainage pipe is inserted into the well - its end must be brought out above the pit by 1-1.5 meters. The upper part of the pipe must be covered with a net. The bottom of the pit should be covered with a 10-20 cm layer of rubble.
4. Tires are laid on the crushed stone. Previously, one inner side is cut off from each tire. Now the water will not linger in the depressions.
5. In the last or penultimate tire, you need to make a hole for the gutter with a jigsaw.

The finished pit is covered with earth and compacted.

To prevent the cesspool from filling with groundwater, you can use the walls of the hole and car tires lay a layer of roofing material or plastic wrap.

6. The cover for such a cesspool must be made of a very stable material. Thick plastic is best for this. On top of the cover, you need to pour a layer of earth in the form of a hill so that the water flows from it. The tire pit is ready.

A pit made of concrete rings - a reliable structure

Having completed all the calculations and having determined the place for the cesspool, you can begin preparation: purchase building materials, prepare the tools that will be needed for the construction of the cesspool. Pay attention to the following points:

1. The bottom of the pit must be concreted. A pit like this will give you less trouble cleaning.
2. The walls are also concreted. An overlap is made over the cesspool; it is necessary to make a ventilation hatch in it, through which gases will be discharged. A hatch is also needed for pumping out wastewater with sewage equipment or manually. The slab is best made from a concrete slab that has a hole.

If the hatch cover is not insulated, then it is necessary to calculate the depth of the pit so that the hatch is 20-30 cm below the ground surface. Having installed the floor slab, it must be covered with soil. This measure will prevent the pit from freezing in winter.

1. Concrete is calculated according to the area of ​​the bottom of the pit, and, if necessary, of the overlap. Concrete is made as follows: 6 parts of fine or medium-sized crushed stone, 1 part of cement and 4 parts of sand. Water is added until a thick solution is obtained that does not run off the shovel.

Reinforcement with a diameter of 8-12 mm or steel wire with a diameter of 6-8 mm is placed in the bottom of the pit and poured with concrete. The reinforcement is laid with a step of 30-40 cm. After the bottom has solidified (2-3 days), concrete rings can be installed.

For a cesspool with a volume of 5-6 m 3, 4-5 rings will be needed. The diameters of the rings can be from 800 to 1500 mm.

2. The seams between the rings must be concreted, and after the mortar has completely solidified, the top slab can be laid. While the concrete is drying, sewer pipes can be connected.

Brick

The bottom of the cesspool is done in the same way as in the first case. The floor slab can be made of wood by impregnating the boards with creosote or bitumen.

Do not forget the ventilation and evacuation hole.

It is undesirable to use a concrete slab for a brick pit, since with its large weight it can crush the edges of a brick pit.

The number of bricks for the cesspool is calculated as follows: the height of the walls must be divided by the height of the 1st brick and add 6-10 mm of the joint thickness (cement mortar). The result will be the number of rows of bricks.

The use of cinder block, foam block or similar building materials is not recommended. Under the influence of moisture, the cinder block quickly collapses. Such a cesspool will not last very long. The only plus of this material is fast and low-cost construction.

Several ways to clean

There are at least four effective method cleaning the cesspool with your own hands and with the help of specialists. Manual cleaning, pumping out with a pump, help of sewage equipment and biological products. Let's consider each separately.

The work of biological products will bear fruit - the drains will begin to be more actively absorbed into the soil and, perhaps, the pit will not even have to be pumped out. Also produced chemicals, but they must be chosen very carefully.

Now you know about all the ways to clean the cesspool in your area. By doing everything according to the rules, you will clear the hole efficiently and quickly.

Utilities are dealing with the problems of drainage and utilization of domestic wastewater within the city limits. In rural areas, this task entirely falls on the shoulders of the owners. suburban real estate... The owners of large estates prefer volumetric septic tanks, some of them even install local cleaning stations. But summer residents are better off doing it differently - to build a structure from inexpensive or waste materials, namely a cesspool.

Drainage pit constructions

At the planning stage, a decision must be made about the design of the drain pit. Buildings are waterproofed with a bottom or those in which the bottom is not provided. Of course, the technology of building pits without a bottom is simpler. However, it is worth abandoning the construction of such a structure if the volume of wastewater that is generated per day is more than 1 cubic meter, since in this case a situation is possible when waste and groundwater are mixed. Bottomless pits need to be backfilled periodically when they are full, which reduces the usable area on the site and contributes to the spread of unpleasant odors. Therefore, it is better to make a choice in favor of a full-fledged waterproof pit, with significant advantages over its predecessor.

Sump pit dimensions

Let's move on to determining the size of the structure:

1. Consider the consumption rate per tenant per day. Its value is about 180 liters. Consequently, a family of 3 people consumes about 12 cubic meters per month, and in this case, a pit should be planned, which has a size of 18 cubic meters.
2. When calculating, take into account which rocks occur on the site. In the presence of rocks that are able to easily pass water, which include marl, the volume of the pit will be 40% of the monthly runoff. If the soil does not pass water well, in particular clay, then do not forget to make a small supply of volume.
3. In addition, the distance to the surface must also be taken into account in order to prevent possible overflow of wastewater outside the pit and the appearance of an unpleasant odor when this level is constantly exceeded. The distance must be at least 1 m.
4. You should also choose the correct depth of the cesspool, so that later it will be comfortable to clean it. The optimum depth is about 3 m.

Seat selection

When choosing a place where the drainage pit will be located, it is recommended to adhere to the system of established norms, in particular, observe the distance from it to other objects present on the site:

• to residential premises - at least 12 m;
• before the fence - at least 1 meter;
• if it is planned to build a pit without a bottom, then the distance to water supply sources should be at least 30 m.

Pit construction

So, we start building a cesspool on our site:

1. Remove the fertile soil layer. Since it is impractical to throw it away, distribute the soil over the site.
2. When digging a drain hole, the rest of the earth is simply taken out, with the exception of 1.5 cubic meters of soil, which will later be needed to fill the manhole cover.
3. Next, we will deal with concreting the bottom. Fill in the concrete, remembering to level it thoroughly, and wait 10 days for it to gain strength.
4. Let's move on to creating walls using brickwork. Given the fact that no one will see them, you can not try to achieve the ideal quality of wall construction. To increase the absorption of water into the soil, the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern, and the corners must be tied up.

Overlapping the drain pit

Having built a structure for wastewater, we will be engaged in the installation of the ceiling:

• Earth is dug from all sides of the cesspool to create support for the slab. It is worth digging up by 20 cm.
• The formwork is made of corrugated board, so it will turn out to give the floor slab more rigidity. Do not forget that the formwork must also be done around the perimeter of the hatch.
• After that, we carry out the installation of the reinforcement at a distance of 10-15 centimeters, tying it up at the intersection with wire.
• Now you can start filling the floor. The concrete you used to make the floor of the drain will work. In this case, the concrete bayonet procedure should be carried out for better filling of the reinforcement.
• After pouring the concrete, you need to leave the structure for about a month so that it gains strength.

Final works

After the concrete has hardened, it is necessary to remove the formwork and lay out the walls with bricks. From the outside, the surface should be plastered and it is imperative to carry out waterproofing with bitumen to prevent precipitation from entering the structure.

It remains only to backfill the surface above the hatch with soil, which remained after digging the foundation pit. Remember to level everything carefully. Finally, watch a video on this topic!

And we want life in the house or in the country to be just as comfortable. A properly constructed cesspool in a private home will help you create much-needed conditions away from civilization.

A do-it-yourself cesspool for a toilet will perfectly cope with its sanitary function, and will not require huge funds for its construction.

The ancient predecessor of such a pit was a foundation pit dug in the ground, the walls of which were covered with clay and reinforced with boards. Such a cesspool for a toilet will fully satisfy the needs of summer residents who come to the site two days a week in the summer. But her device can prohibit SES.

The simplest cesspool design

If the owner of a private house has a certain amount of old tires, they can be used for this purpose. You just need to put them in the dug pit, fastening them with bolts. On the side of the top tire, you just need to cut a hole for connecting the sewer pipe. Then the pit around the pit is covered with earth, and covered with a slab with a hole for and a hatch for pumping out.

All cesspools can be divided into three types:

Bottomless pits (absorbing)

Due to the lack of a bottom, liquid runoff, having passed filtration through a layer of sand and gravel, passes into the ground. This option is the most economical, besides, the device of such a pit can be carried out by an absolutely inexperienced performer. Absorption pits are chosen for a summer cottage when there is no need to remove a large amount of waste. With significant volumes, runoff enters and contaminates the soil.

Sealed storage systems

These are closed containers made of plastic or. Such a pit will save you from the problems associated with unpleasant odor and soil pollution, but will force the owners several times a month to call a sewer truck to pump out accumulations. The simplest solution is to install a store-bought plastic container. It does not need to be sealed, but it is necessary to fill the bottom of the pit with cement and strengthen the walls. Such a plastic pit can be installed regardless of the groundwater level.

Septic tanks

They are the best type of pits that perform mechanical wastewater treatment. are single-chamber and multi-chamber.

Single-chamber is a well, the bottom of which is lined with rubble and broken bricks. Water seeping into the ground after cleaning is purified in the soil with the help of bacteria, and the ground is less polluted.

Multi-chamber is a system of several cameras. In the first, collection and rough cleaning takes place, while in the others, special bacteria process polluting inclusions. The water can then be used for technical purposes. Making such a septic tank is not easy.

So, you can resort to worn out again. For its installation, a cushion made of crushed stone with sand and a small screed are enough.

• A concrete pipe with a diameter half the size of the tires becomes vertically into the pit. Its top should be 10 cm below the height of the well.
• The bottom of the pipe is poured with concrete to form a concrete cylinder. At the top, holes are made for infiltration and for installing drain pipes that provide overflow.
• The drain pipe is introduced into this concrete container, and the points of entry are sealed.

Making the Absorption Pit

Residents of small country houses most often do this option with their own hands. The walls are laid out from either gas silicate blocks, but it is better to build them from concrete rings.

Hermetically sealed device

The principle of arrangement is similar, but there is no need to make holes for infiltration of drains and the bottom is completely concreted and reinforced. It is recommended to seal the walls.

Brickwork will take much longer, while a concrete screed is also made at the bottom, and walls can be laid both in a circle and in the form of a square. The concrete platform must be left standing for a week before laying.

Ready-made sets of cesspools

The arrangement of such a pit occurs extremely quickly.

• We dig a foundation pit according to the standard scheme.
• we make a pillow at the bottom of concrete and gravel. We give her a week to get stronger, slightly irrigating with water. We order a set with delivery by car with a manipulator. An additional bridge can be made inside to separate the polluted drain from the treated water.

Pumping and cleaning of cesspools

Regardless of the type of cesspool, someday you will have to clean it. You can do this yourself with the help of a fecal pump, but it is easier and more efficient to call a flusher.

Pumping out the cesspool with sewers or a fecal pump will not completely solve the problem of cleaning, since the sediment remains at the bottom. To solve this problem, use special means for cesspools.

In summer, biological products consisting of living microorganisms that accelerate the decomposition of organic matter are effective and environmentally friendly. Bacteria minimize waste and eliminate unpleasant odors. They begin to work two hours after being in the water, and in four - they eliminate the unpleasant odor.

But these biological products function only during the warm season. In winter, you need to use chemical agents. The best choice are nitrate oxidants that are safe for humans and plants.

Sanitary standards

In order for the use of the cesspool not to cause problems, in the process of its construction it is necessary to comply with the SanPin standards:

• The distance to the well should be 30 m.
• The distance between the drive and the residential building should be 5-7 m.
• When choosing a sealed drive, the distance may be shorter.
• It is forbidden to use absorbing accumulators, with a daily waste volume of more than 1 cubic meter. m.
• For the timely pumping of waste, it is necessary to organize the entrance of a sewer truck. The pit should be no more than 3 m deep.
• The lid should cover the cesspool tightly and be additionally insulated.

Video about arranging a cesspool with your own hands