Production of homemade printed circuit boards with a mask. Production of printed circuit boards with the FSR8000 soldering mask. List of what is needed for the technological process of manufacturing printed circuit boards

Soldering mask, or "Zelenka", as they used to be called, protects the printed circuit board when closing the conductors, preventing closures between the venues and protecting the fiberglass from overheating during installation. It used to be done only green. Now there are many colors. What color to choose? And does any mean matter what mask color selected?

Examples of life

We have a customer who orders his color mask for each type of printed circuit board. It all started with shades of blue, red, purple, then was black, white, now lilac, turquoise, burgundy ...

There is another customer - a huge enterprise with a lot of departments. Each department chooses its mask color. In my opinion, even each developer at this enterprise prefers its shade. Is it good or bad?

In my opinion, it is not just bad - this is a catastrophe for an enterprise. And that's why.

1. Problems with input control

If an enterprise conducts input visual control of printed circuit boards, differences in the mask color can lead to a significant increase in staff fatigue. Firstly, bright colors, such as red or white, are significantly larger than the eyes. The second, together with the color change, the saturation of the mask is changing, and therefore it may be more difficult to distinguish the conductors under it and control their quality. Thirdly, the eye, accustomed to the definition of defects under a mask of the same color, will not be able to find them as high quality when a color change.

2. Problems with installation and output control

Even greater difficulties begin at the weekend visual control after installation. Especially if the mask has a black or white color. Control of the presence of components turns into essential flour. If such small components are used as 0402, the quality control of their installation on the background of a dark or black mask can be eliminated several times.

3. Problems with printed circuit board

Standard color masks are considered green. Accordingly, each printed circuit board manufacturing plant has a stock of a mask of this color in stock. But as soon as the games are starting with the choice of mask and shade color ("Please, red, but not faded, but frightened ..."), the manufacturer is forced to select the desired mask or in its reserves, or from the supplier of materials. And it can happen that the dilution mode, applying or curing this mask is slightly different from the standard one. And here it is possible to loss the quality of the oil cover. So it is necessary to change the color mask for large parties with caution, first try samples.

4 .. problems with external species printed circuit board

Introne I do not advise you to use a mask white color. After mounting in the furnace, it acquires the "jaundice" shade.
I do not recommend using a red mask. The difference in shades is too noticeable, and in the manufacture of repeats you can get a shade, in no way combined with the boards of the previous launch.
Places of black and of blue colorBut, as I said, there are much more difficult and longer to control visually.

Madness and glossiness

The glossy mask is more convenient, the scratches are less visible on it. Places with glossy mask look more elegant.
PCB technology by default makes a green glossy mask.

In some situations, you need to apply special colors (as, for example, black matte is used in traffic lights to reduce the glare, and the white is used in the illuminators to increase the light output). In such situations, the choice of non-standard color or frostedness / glossiness is fully justified.

With any factory board, then the main difference will be rushed into the eye: almost all the factory tracks are covered with some kind of protective layer, only contact pads remain outside. This layer can be green, red, blue, and sometimes even black or white. So what is it, and why is it necessary?

This coating is referred to as a soldering mask, and is designed to protect the tracks from oxides, random closures and overheating of the textolite when installing elements. In addition to this, the installation of elements on the board covered with a soldering mask is much more comfortable: the solder is not stretched along the tracks. If the details are sealed with a hairdryer, then it is all the more relevant. Yes, and looks like a fee with a mask much more attractive.

On the this moment Three types of soldering mask are available to the radio amateur:

• One-component (with uv curing).
• Two-component.
• Dry film.

A single-component mask offered by our little Chinese friends in fact is still repair paint. For example, it is very convenient to smell the place of restoration of the tracks. No, as a mask also use it, in this case you do not need a furnace (and the UV lamps are needed anyway), but in strength it still loses two-component. There is a real one-component soldering maskBut it meets much less often.

The film mask is very similar to the photoresist and in appearance, and on the principle of working with it. Yes, yes, from the photoresist, you can also make a protective coating, but in fact it is only a similarity that does not have a chemical mechanical strength. It is as rather rarely found, it is quite expensive, and most importantly, a vacuum laminator is needed for full-fledged work (for a full fit of the mask to the surface of the board).

The most optimal price / quality ratio is a two-component soldering mask. There is an opportunity to purchase it for a weak, which makes the mask even more affordable.

Yes, the application of a soldering mask makes the process of manufacturing the board even more time-consuming, time consuming and requires new tools and materials. But after all, a real radio amateur and should not stand still, acquiring new skills and knowledge, it is always good.

As usual, we divide the process of manufacturing the board to the steps:

Drilling the workpiece, applying photoresist, exposure, manifest, etching.We looked at all these stages earlier. Perhaps someone will surprise the fact that the first stage is drilling, usually we did it almost at the very end, but in this case the opening drills the CNC machine, and the order will be such. We will still talk about preparing files for the machine and manufacturing board with its help, but for now we will accept it as a given.

Drilled blank, with a photoresist applied.

Billet before exposure tracks.

In the second photo you can see that there is another template next to the path template (in fact it is not alone there). This is a template for a soldering mask. According to the principle of working with it, the mask is not much different from the photoresist. This is exactly the same photosensitive material, with minor differences: it consists of two components and it is liquid.

Mixing mask. Before applying the mask, the composite and hardener are mixed in a certain proportion, for example, for FSR-8000 - 3 masks: 1. Compacts the color of the coating, and the hardener is white.

The situation when when applied did not have enough masks, it actually acts on the psyche very depressingly, which means it is necessary to calculate its number. In fact, everything is simple: per square decimeter of the board (10 * 10 cm) with a margin of 2 grams of masks. Of course, it all depends on the consistency and the method of application, I'm talking about the situation when the mask is not diluted (sufficiently thick), and applies through a special grid with the help of a rocel. Yes, a very small consumption.

For example, our billet with a size of 6.5 cm by 4.5 cm. We consider the area in decimeters: (6.5 cm * 4.5 cm) / 100 \u003d 0.2925 dm². We believe that 0.3 dm², in our case it is better to round in the biggest side. We consider the amount of mask: 0.3 dm² * 2 gr. \u003d 0.6 gr. This is the number of ready mask. Since we interfere in the proportion of 3 to 1, then 0.6 gr. / 4 parts \u003d 0.15 grams - the weight of one part. So 3 parts of the composite have a weight of 0.45 grams, and one part of the hardener is 0.15 grams. Missing.

There is nothing terrible in the fact that the composite for hundredth shares of gram is more than expected. But if we are talking about the situation when something is more, it is very desirable that it is exactly a composite and not a hardener. Again, on hundredths, no more, the proportions must be observed. Next, very carefully mix the mask, and leave for a few minutes. In the meantime, we prepare the grid.

Applying a soldering mask.You can prevent the mask to apply the mask: the layer should be thin and necessarily uniform. You can certainly try to cope with your handicrafts (here it is usually a paint rollers, spatulas for seaming seams and other garden equipment), but still the only right way will be applied through the screen grid.

The screen grid is a material that is perfect for applying a mask. I use the LM-PRINT brand grids (link to the store is in the table above). In the marking of the grid through the fraction indicated the number of threads per cm and the diameter of the threads in the ICM. For example, LM-Print PES 61/60 PW is 61 thread per cm, the diameter of the threads of 60 microns. The smaller the number of threads, the thicker mask on the surface of the board. And vice versa.

For the grid on sale you can find special frames for which this mesh is stretched. In my case, this is an ordinary profile pipe of 18 mm. Glue for the grid special, is purchased there where both the grid is. You can read the racks at the grid angles of the grid, you raise it over a 3 mm blank.

The perimeter of the workpiece is sick on the grid with painting tape. Prepare two windows at once: for mask and silk screen. Shell rubber is also special, and it is purchased there where both the grid is.

The prepared mask is applied to a uniform layer on one of the sides of the board. After that, one confident movement stretches along the billet with the rib of the rhelel, located at an angle. The main thing is not to stop when applied. Of course, experience needs experience, and over time the result will be only better. And for training you can use toothpaste, eg.

Drying solder mask.Very responsible stage. The workpiece of the fee in the manufacture of a soldering mask has time to visit the furnace twice. For the first time for pre-drying, and the second is for final curing. And the difference is only one - temperature. If the drying is performed at a temperature of 75-85 ° C, then tossing at 150-160 ° C. Guess what will happen if you exceed the temperature of the preliminary drying? Yes, the mask finally hardens, and it will be impossible to wash it off with any developing solutions. We will receive a fee with a beautiful and smooth mask, which is completely not suitable for soldering, as the layer of mask solid. It will only be left to throw it away, and this is the whole cycle from the application of the photoresist and to the finished, in fact, the fees. It's a shame? Of course. Therefore, we take a very careful dryer. Of course, it is better to entrust such a task intended for this to the aggregates. I have a stove for this, with the PID controller installed in it. Pre-drying usually takes 30-55 minutes. The main thing, the mask after drying should not stick. With that while it is hot, such an effect may be, but when cooled, it should disappear.

Exposure of a soldering mask.It differs from the photoresist only the exposure time, otherwise everything is the same. The mask is negative (as well as a photoresist, polymerizes what was lined up), it means that only contact pads are closed. Next, exhibit.

Manics soldering mask.Again, everything is like a photoresist. Even the solution is the same, because after the manifest of the photoresist it does not pour it out, but we use on. And even after the manifests of the mask, he will come in handy, we will show them a silkograph and we will wash it out from the mask. I want to pay attention to: if the mask is glossy, then in the development of this gloss it is easy to damage, because Ideally, it is impossible to touch the board at all. However, if everything is done correctly, the mask is manifested very easily.

Application of silkography.In principle, the application of the designations of the elements on the board is not the most necessary thing. If without a solder mask in some cases, it is quite sad, then the designation of the elements is just convenience when assembling the device. So I appline and label. For this purpose, the same mask is used, only choose blue color.

note

If the marking is applied on the same side as a soldering mask, it must be installed at least 15 minutes at the appropriate temperature. If you apply a new layer on a mask which is not planted, which is part of the solvent mask damn the bottom layer. The mask remains on the board, but its surface cracks. Especially if the color mask is white, these cracks are in the end very clearly visible.

We have labeling on the reverse side, because it is permissible to apply without drying. Similarly, we knead the blue mask and apply it to reverse side fees.

Drying silk screening.In the oven for 45 minutes at a temperature of 75-85 ° C.

Exposure of silk screen.We need only the designation of the elements, which means that the template use negative.

Manics of silk screening.

Final drying.Performed at a temperature of 150-160 ° C for 45-75 minutes. At this temperature, the mask acquires final strength.

While the fee is dried, you can wash the mesh from the mask. This easily cope with a developing solution of soda soda and a housing sponge.

Cutting board.Of course, it is not necessary to do this with the help of the machine, but since he drove the holes, he also cuts over the contour too.

Tinning.There is also one feature here: after the oven, copper on the contact pads are oxidized, and it is not so easy to brow. But it is fixed very easily, enough to lower the board into the water in which the added lemon acid. We use it for etching, so this is not a problem. Floor a teaspoon on the floor of a glass of water, and copper will become clean and shiny.

So it came to the end of the cycle of articles on the manufacture of devices. As I promised, we went through a rather long way. Of course, the production considered methods is not limited, this theme is very extensive. But, I hope, the general presentation of the cycle allows you to make a general presentation.

Between the first and last technology - dozens of years. But not even this is the main thing. Between them the enormous labor of the whole world of radio amateurs. Labor, full of experiments, victories and mistakes, is not mistaken only the one who does nothing. Do not be afraid to ask questions, experiment and share your experience (albeit not always successful). This experience is necessarily useful to someone else, otherwise and can not.

All the best.

The quality of any self-made electronic device is very dependent on how high-quality it was manufactured. (Yeah - useful phrase, it's so clear! Well yes…. But I need to start with something?). A large role in this is played by the printed fee (this is if you do not have too much that can be done and made volumetric installation). The harder the device, the more difficult the pattern of the printed circuit board, and the better it should be made. About one way production of a printed circuit board with your own hands We are talking.

Preface

There are several ways production of printed circuit boards at home. When I just started to master the manufacture of printed circuit boards (it was even when he studied on an electron in the school), the track was drawn with nail polish (very brutal printed circuit boards were obtained), then it turned out to the waterproof marker (the boards already looked much better). But only when he moved to laser-iron technology (Lout) (and this happened relatively recently) I finally began to make printed circuit boards, pleasing eyes. Hobbies I have this - design and manufacture various electronic gadgets. Is it interesting to run anything on a terrible printed circuit board? But, after a while, I stopped to arrange this technology. Despite the advantages of the plot, as the technology of manufacturing printed circuit boards, and their pretty much ::

With the help of laser-irrigated technology - it was possible to even apply inscriptions, which I did in some cases.
But leaf gave accuracy not more than 0.3 mm. This is a practical ceiling. I tried to make the tracks thinner, and I got, although at the same time the percentage of marriage increased very much. In general, I also delayed the preface to the article, so we turn to the actually soldering mask.

What is a soldering mask?

FSR8000. - two-component delicate ultraviolet radiation composition. It has three states.
1. "Raw state". After the two components were mixed. In this form, it can be washed or acetone or a solution of soda calcined.
2) "Holded state".
2a) unauthorized ultraviolet. It is dissolved by acetone and a solution of calcined soda.
2B) After the ultraviolet ultraviolet, the mask gets resistance to the solution of soda calcined, but still can be washed with acetone.
3) "Baked state". It turns out after heating to 160 degrees, followed by percentage of several tens of minutes. It does not dissolve acetone, has a large mechanical resistance.
In simple language: Mask is a protective layer, which can often be observed on printed boards of factory manufacture. Very often green. This article will deal with the non-standard use of this mask as a photoresist.
To do this, use the first two states, i.e. With the help of the illumination and the subsequent developing, get the drawing of conductors on the textolite. And after etching, this drawing washed off with acetone.
Then the mask can be used to be appointed by covering the mask area of \u200b\u200bthe entire board, except for contact pads intended for the sealing of parts. Then translate the mask in the third state. And now about the same, but in detail and from photos.

List of what is needed for the technological process of manufacturing printed circuit boards

Technological process of manufacturing a printed circuit board at home

Photoshop (photonatellular film). It can be done in the printing house, in which there is equipment for photonation films. Often this service is not attached by printing houses, as it is purely internal. But, as a rule, they do without problems agree to bring your drawings of a handkerchief on the photophone film. File format, drawing dimensions must be clarified in a specific printing house.
To get the board of the board, the template must be inverted (white tracks on a black background). For a protective mask - straight (black circles on a white background).

Photos are shown the photo mask for a printed circuit board. One side seems embossed, the other - should be glossy and smooth. It is important not to confuse the parties - photosala on the side where the relief.
Wooden frame (from balza glued down by a low-grade superclay!) With a stretched baby bow. In general, it is best to use special grids. I, subsequently, refused the bow - and switched to Organza (it is looking for where they sew all sorts of curtains and curtains on the windows. I, for example, poured trimming of this organza to freebie)

We drink a blank from the textolite. Let's give some margin on the sides. You can not give a margin, but cutting the printed circuit board immediately the desired dimensions, but then you need to ensure that the mask does not accumulate on the edge (i.e., try evenly distribute it)

Clean the surface of the skin. You do not need to try hard, it is enough to remove the dirt - the mask will very well stick to the textolite.
In the photo, purified textolite. Metal chips are washed with water.
Iron with thermometer. Not sure to control the process so always. Now I know the position of the regulator for 60-80 degrees, and installing it into this provision, I am sure that I get the desired temperature. Carefully, the iron temperature must be no higher than 100! If you exceed this temperature - your mask will lose the ability to develop in calcination soda.
We recruit the components of the mask in small syringes. All you need for the manufacture of printed circuit board
- Mask components in syringes
- Frame
- Photoshamal
- Toothpicks
- a piece of foam.
Let us squeeze the necessary number of reagents on the textolit.
For such a shawl, it is 3 ml mask (green component) and 1 part of the hardener (white component). Those. The proportion should be 3 to 1.
Stir toothpick. We try to stir well, as much depends on the quality of the stirring.
Mixed homogeneous mask
Press the grid from above. Here, perhaps, it is worth saying that in some cases (especially when the mask is already with an overdue storage string) mix better large portions, immediately for several handkerchief. Then impose a frame with a mesh on the scarf, and on top of the grid already apply the required amount of mixed mask. Then the grid will not give a dense (thickened) lumps masks to get to the textolol, thereby spoiling the whole picture.
We distribute the mask by textolit. The meaning is that the mask remains only in the grid cells. Then when removing the grid - we will get a uniformly distributed mask. Therefore, a piece of polyfoam as a photo (either by credit card) we try to remove excess masks from the surface of the grid. Without fanaticism! Do not brush the grid
Result
Gently remove the grid
The mask quickly breaks over the entire surface, forming a uniform layer
Put the future printed circuit board on the iron
Cover the scarf something to protect against dust. And we are waiting for a few minutes (or dozens of minutes). Meanwhile, the grid with traces of masks throw in the calcined soda.
It is important to catch the moment of almost complete drying mask. You can try to check the mask with a finger on the edge of the shawl (where you left the tolerance. You left the tolerance?! Yes, by the way, if you did not leave - it's not a trouble - you can touch the mask where exactly there is no drawing. Yes, and for printed conductors - Your fingerprints are almost no hindrance). If there is no trace during the finger on the surface, and the mask at the same time will slightly stick to the fingers - this is what we need.
Color with mask with cut pattern.
We assign a template for a photo of a mask and smooth it carefully to the scarf. Do not confuse side! If the surface is a bit of sticky - the pattern without problems holds on the scarf. If the surface is almost dry - not trouble. Try either to mix the surface with water so that the adhesive pattern, or, press the template to the scarf (you can climb. But neatly!) In general, the template must fit tightly to the scarf.
Put on the illumination. The decoration time is determined by an experimental way. I can say the modes of your illumination: 70 (you can even 80) minutes at a distance of 7 cm, under the energy saving of 22 watts. UV lamp will give a much smaller time of illumination, but at the same time decreases and tolerances for time).
Cooking a solution for the manifestation (in advance, we just threw the frame Water room temperature. Purified, soft. Dosage - experimentally, on photography Dosage for soft St. Petersburg water (as you already guessed, the photos did the world). For solid water - soda must be greater. The solution should be slightly soapped to the touch. If soda is too much - the manifest will be quick, but at the same time a slightly unattended mask "tears" during the manifests. And if soda will be too little - the manifest will be very slow. Moreover, the heating of the solution only prevents the manifestation.

After the time passed, necessary for the illumination - remove the film, and we throw the scarf into the solution
Rank in solution.
If everything is right, then in a minute you should see a light picture of conductors.
When the handker was completely manifested, my soda from the remains of soda, put on the iron.
What happened. Clear Picture Figure
One of the unpleasant features of the mask has unacceptable areas. On a dry scarf - they are very well noticeable as whitish spots. They should not be! They will not give the etching solution to get to copper. We throw the scarf back into the solution, and we can clean the area with a gently with a mob. We wash off, dry, control. And if everything is in order, then ...
Pool scarf.
In the process of etching, control so that there are no air bubbles. Often they are between the tracks.
Polevim, Pravim ...


That's what happened.
We wash off the acetone mask. You can check the scarf, ring the breaks and closures. After all, we will now apply a protective mask, and then correct the cliffs, and especially closures, it will be very difficult.
Already in principle - you can solder, but we have a mask! We need a protective mask! Therefore, repeat the whole process. Application of components
Mixing and distribution
Drying This time you need to dry longer. To make the mask at all stop sticking. After all, now you need to very accurately combine a template with ready-made tracks, and when the template sticks to the mask - it will be very difficult to do.

We assign a mask pattern. Accuracy Combination can be checked on the light (if the handker is one-sided)
Again in the illumination (yes, yes, again, by 70-80 minutes, if you do not have UV. But you can simultaneously make several printed circuit boards!) Then in the development in the same solution of soda. It in principle is enough for a long time. True, it will be necessary to change anyway, because in a green solution is not visible to the scarlet itself, and how it is becoming more beautiful and more beautiful
For example, I like to observe how glittering copper areas are gradually manifested on the green surface.
Result. Very beautiful printed circuit board made with your own hands.
And the result on the lumen. A little laid past
Further by dry scarf. At the same temperature (60 ... 80). It is necessary that the water does not boil and the mask did not swell.
After that, raise the temperature to 160 degrees, and the drying scarf for about another hour. But already the result. Cropped, drilled, lured and walked is not true - is very similar to a printed circuit board made on some factory?
So, pros using this method of self manufacturing printed circuit board:

• Very and very technically and beautiful
• High accuracy. 0.15 mm is not a problem. Two tracks between the legs of the DIP case? With diligence is not a problem.
• Nearly 100% repeatability (Of course, this is when you already know at what distance and how much time to evode and other small things, determined experimentally on the first attempts to manufacture a shawl)
• Protective mask. This is a very good plus - because to solder with a protective mask it becomes very simple - the SMD components simply fall into their place.

And now minuses.

• A very long time. When using conventional energy saving - very long. But who interferes from making shawls in batches?
• Need a photonophobony film. (You can, of course, use the templates from the printer. But ..., honestly. I do not advise. Because then the tolerances for the time of illumination are becoming very and very small)
• Well, the most important thing: FSR8000 mask is difficult to get.

Safety.

Keep in mind - in the description of FSR8000 has been written a lot of unpleasant about the poisonous properties of the mask vapor. At a minimum - work with an open window. And best of all - under the hood. Now about my tips "Touch your finger, whether it dried up" - it's better not to do. I got a mask on the hands - quickly rummate.
Acetone. Also harmful. It dissolves fat, which means that something unpleasant can be done from subcutaneous fat. It is better to prevent a long contact.

Ferric chloride. It is better not to inhale his pairs. In general, I have the whole process on the balcony, with an open window. I go to the balcony only when my presence is necessary. And after graduation, he ventilate him well.

findings

Making do it yourself printed circuit board Almost factory quality in home Conditions - Perhaps, and not even very difficult! It would also be possible to master the manufacture of transition holes ...

Big gratitude Thermite for granted pictures, the very description of the technology (he first tried it), well, for a donated mask

The quality of any self-made electronic device is very dependent on how qualitatively it
it was manufactured (yes, it is a useful phrase, it's so clear! Well, it's yes ... But I need from something
to begin?).
A big role in this is played by the printed circuit board (this is if you are not too simple design that
can I.
volume installation to do). The harder the device, the more difficult the drawing of the circuit board, and the
quality
it must be made. About one way production of a printed circuit board with your own hands speech
and go.

Preface

All materials used in this article can be bought in our store.

There are several ways pCB manufacturing at home. At the very beginning (this is when it was happening on an electronics in the school) I was drawing a path with nail polish (very brutal printed circuit boards were obtained), then I tried a waterproof marker (already better). But only when I mastered laser-iron technology (LUT) (and this relatively recently happened) I was finally able to get the quality of the boards that the eye was pleased. After all, I make electronic crafts purely for the sake of the process itself. Well, my hobby is. And what interest to solder something on a terrible printed circuit board? But after a couple of years I have ceased to arrange this technology. Although the advantages of the Luta a lot:

• speed (in the presence of a printer - from printout before the start of the soldering I got to achieve for about 10 minutes);
• easy (although for this simplicity will have to pay a good tent of the unsuccessful doubles at the very beginning of using this technology. Those. you need to "fill the hand.")
• good repeatability. (I got about 90% of all attempts. I did not include the first ten in statistics!).

With the help of laser-irrigated technology - it was possible to even apply inscriptions, which I did in some cases.
But leaf gave accuracy not more than 0.3 mm. This is a practical ceiling. I tried to make the tracks thinner, and I got, although at the same time the percentage of marriage increased very much. In general, I also delayed the preface to the article, so we turn to the actually soldering mask.

What is a soldering mask?

FSR8000. - two-component delicate ultraviolet radiation composition. It has three states.
1. "Raw state". After the two components were mixed. In this form, it can be washed or acetone or a solution of soda calcined.
2) "Holded state".
2a) unauthorized ultraviolet. It is dissolved by acetone and a solution of calcined soda.
2B) After the ultraviolet ultraviolet, the mask gets resistance to the solution of soda calcined, but still can be washed with acetone.
3) "Baked state". It turns out after heating to 160 degrees, followed by percentage of several tens of minutes. It does not dissolve acetone, has a large mechanical resistance.
In simple language: Mask is a protective layer, which can often be observed on printed boards of factory manufacture. Very often green. This article will deal with the non-standard use of this mask as a photoresist.
To do this, use the first two states, i.e. With the help of the illumination and the subsequent developing, get the drawing of conductors on the textolite. And after etching, this drawing washed off with acetone.
Then the mask can be used to be appointed by covering the mask area of \u200b\u200bthe entire board, except for contact pads intended for the sealing of parts. Then translate the mask in the third state. And now about the same, but in detail and from photos.

List of what is needed for the technological process of manufacturing printed circuit boards

1. - FSR8000. (You can buy in our store)
2. Thermostat. Despite the formidable name, you can use the usual iron with the possibility of adjusting the temperature. You still need a thermometer (up to 160 degrees) to remember the positions of the regulator at 70 degrees and 160 degrees. After that, the thermometer is in fact no longer needed.
3. . You can simply use the usual energy-saving lamp with cold light. Just the time of illumination will be very long. But safely.
4. Frame with mesh.Frame with stretched grid.). for masks and can be purchased on our website, also advise you to read the article
5. Photoshop With a pattern of board and the placement of contact pads. for photoshoblon
6. Insulin syringes. Need to accurately mix the components of the mask .
7. Toothpick. To stirring the component of the mask.
8. For uniform application mask on textolit, we need: , credit card, piece of foam. I use a credit card (already unnecessary, of course).
9. For the developing we need soda calcining. Looking near washing powders in stores.
10. Acetone. To wash off the mask after etching.
11. Capacity For the manifestation (any plastic dishes)

Technological process of manufacturing a printed circuit board at home

Photoshop (). It can be done in the printing house, in which there is equipment for photonation films. Often this service is not attached by printing houses, as it is purely internal. But, as a rule, they do without problems agree to bring your drawings of a handkerchief on the photophone film. File format, drawing dimensions must be clarified in a specific printing house.
To get the board of the board, the template must be inverted (white tracks on a black background). For a protective mask - straight (black circles on a white background) . Photoresist Ordyl Alpha 340

Photos are shown the photo mask himself. One side seems embossed, the other - should be glossy and smooth.
It is important not to confuse the parties - photosala on the side where the relief.

Wooden frame (from balza glued down by a low-grade superclay!) With a stretched baby bow.

We drink a blank from the textolite. Let's give some margin on the sides.

Clean the surface of the skin. You do not need to try hard, it is enough to remove the dirt. The mask has very good adhesion.

In the photo, purified textolite. Metal chips must be washed with water.

Iron with thermometer. It is necessary to control the process so much. Now I know the position of the regulator
for 60-80 degrees, and installing it in this position, I am sure that I get the desired temperature.
Carefully, the iron temperature must be no higher than 100!

We recruit the components of the mask in small syringes.

All you need to work
- Mask components in syringes
- Frame
- Photoshamal
- Toothpicks
- Shell rubber


Let us squeeze the necessary number of reagents on the textolit.
For such a shawl, it is 3 ml mask (green component) and 1 part of the hardener (white component). Those. The proportion should be 3 to 1
.

Stir toothpick. We try to stir well, as much depends on the quality of the stirring.

Mixed homogeneous mask

Press the grid from above. Here, perhaps, it is worth saying that in some cases (especially then
when the mask is already with an overdue storage time) mix better large portions, immediately for several
handkerchief Then apply a frame with a mesh on the scarf, and on top to the grid already apply the required amount of mixed
masks. Then the grid will not give a dense (thickened) lumps masks to get to the textolit, thereby spoiling
the whole picture.

We distribute the mask by textolit. The meaning is that the mask remains only in the grid cells. Then when removing
grids - we will get a uniformly distributed mask. Therefore, a piece of shelter rubber (or a credit card)
we try to remove excess masks from the surface of the grid. Without fanaticism! Do not brush the grid

Result

Gently remove the grid

The mask quickly breaks over the entire surface, forming a uniform layer

Put the scarf to the iron

Cover the scarf something to protect against dust. And we are waiting for a few minutes (or dozens of minutes).

Meanwhile, the grid with traces of masks throw in the calcined soda.

It is important to catch the moment of almost complete drying mask. You can try to check the mask with a finger on the edge of the shawl.
(where you left the tolerance. You left the tolerance?!). If it does not remain when holding a finger on the surface
traces, and the mask at the same time slightly lippes to the fingers - this is what we need. Color with mask with cut pattern.

We assign a template for a photo of a mask and smooth it carefully to the scarf. Do not confuse side! If surface
a little sticky - a template without problems keeps on the scarf. If the surface is almost dry - not trouble.
Try either moisten the surface with water so that the adhesive pattern, or, press the template to the scarf
(You can climb a scotch. But neatly!) In general, the template must fit tightly to the scarf.

Put on the illumination. The decoration time is determined by an experimental way. I can say modes of your illumination:
70 (even 80) minutes at a distance of 7 cm, under the energy-saving 22 watt. UV lamp will give much less
the time of illumination, but at the same time will decrease accordingly and tolerances for the time).

Cooking a solution for the manifestation

Water room temperature. Purified, soft. Dosage - Experimental, On Photography Dosage for
soft Petersburg water (as you have already guessed, the photos did termit). For solid water - soda should be
more. The solution should be slightly soapped to the touch. If soda is too much - the manifest will be fast,
but at the same time, a slightly unattended mask "tears" in the manifestics. And if soda will be too little - the manifest will be
very slow. Moreover, the heating of the solution only prevents the development. After the time it was necessary
for the illumination - remove the film, and throw the scarf into the solution

Rank in solution.

If everything is right, then in a minute you should see a light picture of conductors.

When the handker was completely manifested, my soda from the remains of soda, put on the iron.

What happened.

One of the unpleasant features of the mask has unacceptable areas.
On a dry scarf - they are very well noticeable as whitish spots. They should not be! They will not give a solution for
etching to get to copper. We throw the scarf back into the solution, and we can clean the area with a gently with a mob.
We wash off, dry, control. And if everything is in order, then ... Rolling the scarf.

In the process of etching, control so that there are no air bubbles. Often they are between the tracks.

Polevim, Pravim ...

Here is what happened

We wash off the acetone mask. You can check the scarf, ring the breaks and closures. After all, we will now
apply a protective mask, and then fix the cliffs, and especially closures, it will be very difficult.
We assign a mask pattern. Accuracy Combination can be checked on the light (if the handker is one-sided)

Again in the illumination (yes, yes, again by 70-80 minutes, if you do not have UV. But you can simultaneously make a few handkerchief!)
Then in the development in the same solution of soda calcined. It in principle is enough for a long time. True change everything
will have to be, because in a green solution is not visible to the scarlet itself, and how it is becoming more beautiful and more beautiful

For example, I like to observe how glittering copper areas are gradually manifested on the green surface.

So, pros using this method of self manufacturing printed circuit board:

• Very and very technically and beautiful
• High accuracy. 0.15 mm is not a problem. Two tracks between the legs of the DIP case? With diligence is not a problem.
• Nearly 100% repeatability (Of course, this is when you already know at what distance and how much time to evode and other small things, determined experimentally on the first attempts to manufacture a shawl)
• Protective mask. This is a very good plus - because to solder with a protective mask it becomes very simple - the SMD components simply fall into their place.

And now minuses.

• A very long time. When using conventional energy saving - very long. But who interferes from making shawls in batches?
• Need a photonophobony film. (You can, of course, use the templates from the printer. But ..., honestly. I do not advise. Because then the tolerances for the time of illumination are becoming very and very small)

Safety.

Keep in mind - in the description of FSR8000 has been written a lot of unpleasant about the poisonous properties of the mask vapor. At a minimum - work with an open window. And best of all - under the hood. Now about my tips "Touch your finger, whether it dried up" - it's better not to do. I got a mask on the hands - quickly rummate.
Acetone. Also harmful. It dissolves fat, which means that something unpleasant can be done from subcutaneous fat. It is better to prevent a long contact.

Ferric chloride. It is better not to inhale his pairs. In general, I have the whole process on the balcony, with an open window. I go to the balcony only when my presence is necessary. And after graduation, he ventilate him well.

findings

Making do it yourself printed circuit board Almost factory quality in home Conditions - Perhaps, and not even very difficult! It would also be possible to master the manufacture of transition holes ...

This article is devoted to the manufacture of homemade printed circuit boards with "Zelenkaya"
The general issues of manufacturing printed circuit boards at home are quite well lit on the Internet. I will not describe what other times wrote other times. Instead, I will briefly describe my little tricks and processes, especially about transition holes and mask (Zelenka).

Homemade fee 8 mil paths, 6 mil distances, transitional and mask.

Equipment

Laser printer (printer Kyocera FS-1100, for toner transfer), laminator, microcompressor.

Materials
All as usual (textolite, chlorine iron, acetone, etc.) besides stained paint (Pebeo Vitrea 160).

Process

Drill: Since I use the CNC for the drilling, the process takes place before carrying the toner, in this case it is easier to position the drawing.

Toner Transfer on a fee:

Many use the iron, but still, the best results were achieved precisely using the laminator. Swamp 10-15 times through the laminator. Paper - here, too, everyone can experiment, I use a photo paper 130 g / m. The use of photographic documents, it seems to me, increases the life of the printer itself. Print mode Select the maximum toner consumption) Unfortunately, the trend is such that modern printers are increasingly economical (or fortunately, depending on which side to see) and the thickness of the toner after the transfer tends to decrease. That's what happened after the laminator:

Etching:

The etching process occurs in a solution of chlorine iron and no different from classical methods - water warmer, iron more, interfere with more often)

Transition holes:

The transition holes are an integral part of the manufacturing process of the self-made bilateral board. You can consider several self-made transition options:

1. Use of special sleeves. It's hard to find or make. The need for a sufficiently large diameter in VIA.

2. Installation of jumpers using wire. It has one disadvantage - when the transition is located under the SMD chip case. There is a certain experience. (Experience is necessary everywhere, but to make jumpers with the necessary length and then solder with the minimum number of solder, sometimes it's not easy)

3. Pressing. This method allows you to create a high-quality transitional connection between the layers. For this purpose, a special machine press was created. Details about the press can be read in.

It would seem that the next stage is rooting the board and go! But no, boring and ugly. We are not looking for simple ways. We make a fee with "Zelenkaya"

Mask

The mask protects the board from corrosion, creates more favorable conditions when installed, gives the "Corporate" view. For the first time about the self-made mask, it was read its basis for the publicly available stained-in paint Pebeo Vitrea 160. . Water-based paint, has one feature - requires firing (drying) in the furnace at a temperature of 160 ° C for 40 minutes. In fact, fry a fee above 130 degrees I have not tried. Temperatures 130 are enough for normal paint polymerization.

First we print on the same laser printer a layer to protect Pads participating in the installation. Simply put, we close the necessary plots from the mask. We assign on the fee and again to the laminator:

Then we appline the paint with the help of our minipulzerizer. I add 1 part of the water to 4 parts of the paint before applying. After applying, we are waiting for 24 hours - paint need to dry. It is not necessary to hurry - we always have time to burn fee). After that, I drive a wife from the kitchen and occupy a stove for 40 minutes. In fact, it is better to get some kind of society or use a toaster for these purposes. But in any case, you need to clearly monitor the temperature. After 40 min, we take out the furnace patty:

The protective layer consisting of toner, we remove with a solvent or acetone using a small mechanical force of the hands. Paint falls off from protected locations due to poor adhesion with toner. Now you can post Pads and solder some SDR transceiver or another trinket. In general, the whole method is quite laborious and necessary, I think for very responsible baubles. Well, or for real esthetes who are not accustomed to give 1000 rubles for the branded bilateral in China (who is interested, write, give the address of the site where really for 1000 rubles Order Normal fees)