Artificial stones, their application and properties. The area of \u200b\u200buse of artificial stone. Overview. Types of artificial stones in the interior. Features of choice, stages of laying

For a material that is commonly called artificial stone by builders and architects, this name is, in fact, rather arbitrary. Firstly, there are several patented technologies for its production from various developers and manufacturers, and therefore artificial from different firms differs somewhat in composition, properties and production technology. The technology for the production of artificial stone can be based on:

- polymerization of acrylic or epoxy resins;
- sintering of the initial mass at high temperature;
- plasma-vacuum sintering.

Ultimately, artificial stone is a polymer material, the bulk of which is filler. Fillers for the production of artificial stone can be:

- finely crushed quartz;
- spar;
- granite;
- crushed glass and other mineral components.

Also in the artificial stone there is aluminum hydroxide or its trihydrate. This is an analogue of a substance that is part of white clay, which is used to make porcelain. As a rule, the composition of the initial mass of the artificial stone also includes a pigment-dye. For the first time, a material called artificial stone in our country, and better known abroad as "Solid Surface", appeared in 1966. Today artificial stone is widely used as a finishing material.

Artificial stone properties

Why was it necessary to invent artificial stone in the presence of a huge abundance of natural stone? Artificial and natural stone are more similar in appearance than in their properties. Many manufacturers and dealers claim that artificial stone is in no way inferior to natural. But it is not so.

The unconditional advantages of artificial stone include its strength combined with plasticity. Where natural stone cracks, artificial stone will most likely withstand. Due to this plasticity, the material is also more technological. It can be cut, drilled, milled without fear that at the most inopportune moment it will delaminate or crack. The durability of artificial stone is comparable to that of natural stone. On the scale of human life expectancy, this question should not bother.

Artificial stone material is environmentally friendly, does not absorb water, dirt or grease. Easy to clean from any dirt. Artificial stone does not carry any residual natural radiation like some minerals. The material is not subject to corrosion, oxidation, decay, resistant to bacteria, fungus and other unwanted microflora. Artificial stone is sufficiently resistant to high temperatures, ultraviolet radiation, and the effects of chemically aggressive substances: acids, alkalis and solvents.

The stone can have a glossy, semi-gloss or matte texture. It looks elegant and noble. It can be processed and connected in a seamless manner. It sticks well, but, perhaps, the main advantage is that products made of artificial stone can be produced by the molding method, which allows you to give products from artificial stone to almost any shape. For example, the countertop and sink for the kitchen can be made as a single monolith.

A significant advantage of an artificial stone is that with an external resemblance, an artificial stone is about one and a half times lighter than a natural one. This is essential in the manufacture of facing facade materials from it. When facing a large area with artificial stone, the weight gain is obtained in hundreds of kilograms, which significantly reduces the load on the foundation. The colors and textures of artificial stone are almost endless. There are hundreds of varieties and modifications of artificial stone presented in Ukraine alone.

Some advantages of natural stone are not peculiar to artificial ones. So, some criticism deserves its heat resistance. While natural stone does not burn anywhere, never and under any conditions and is able to withstand temperatures of thousands of degrees, it is not recommended to put hot objects on artificial stone, for example, it is not recommended to put a goose pan removed from the oven. Assurances about longevity comparable to natural stone should also be taken critically. Artificial stone as a material has existed for a relatively short time - since the middle of the last century. From the point of view of prestige and respectability, natural stone is also valued higher, as well as everything real is valued above a fake.

Artificial stone applications

Considering the listed properties of artificial stone, it is not difficult to understand that it has a very wide range of applications. Artificial stone is widely used for:

- interior decoration and are very fond of designers for their manufacturability;
- almost ideal for kitchen and bathroom interiors;
- finishing of gables of fireplaces;
- cladding and laying of floor coverings.

The absence of pores on the surface of the artificial stone makes it very attractive for use as countertops and bar counters, washstands and sinks, as it is very resistant to dirt and easy to clean. Some designers use it to make indoor decor items such as lamps, furniture panels, miniature sculptures. Considering the possibility of forming the material, elements of garden decor are made from artificial stone: from decorative figurines and sculptures to imitation of natural boulders for decorating landscape compositions. It is characteristic that work on the manufacture of artificial rocks, boulders and alpine slides can be carried out directly on the site, which makes it possible to make stones and boulders of very large sizes.

Artificial stone is used for facing facades, making paving slabs. Facade finishing works with artificial stone in most cases cost several times cheaper in comparison with natural stone. This is due to the fact that natural stone cladding is a rather complicated, expensive and time-consuming process. It is easier to work with artificial stone. Firstly, concrete and brick surfaces do not require special preparation when laying this material, since they have similar physical characteristics. Secondly, artificial stone is easier to cut and process than natural stone. And what is important, in sets of decorative facing stone there are rounded and corner elements, as well as details for facing window and door openings, which greatly simplifies the work on finishing facades.

Artificial stone care

Artificial stone as a material in use requires some maintenance. Despite the fairly high resistance to pollution, the artificial stone must be periodically cleaned of food residues, grease and dust, using soapy water or special solutions. At the same time, despite the high resistance of the material, it is not desirable to use acidic or alkaline solutions. If a chemically aggressive substance gets on the surface of the artificial stone, it is recommended to wash it off with plenty of water.

Sales manager of Profi-Stone company Alexey Ilchenko told iBud.ua this: It is not recommended to cut food directly on the surface of the artificial stone. The knife may well leave scratches. The surface of the artificial stone can also be damaged by impact with a heavy or sharp object. Avoid exposing the material to boiling water or just very hot water. Based on the fact that almost all operating instructions indicate that dishes that have just been removed from the fire should not be placed on a surface made of this material. Therefore, it is possible to question the statement about the high heat resistance of artificial stone. It is not recommended to use cleaning products that contain abrasives when cleaning products made of artificial stone. Abrasive substances must not be used for glossy artificial stone surfaces. However, the artificial stone surface is subject to repair and restoration. For this, special polymer compositions are produced, the use of which eliminates scratches and chips, but when using them, qualifications and certain experience are required. In addition, for artificial stone surfaces, a special polishing paste is produced, which is rubbed in a circular motion using a soft cloth.

Manufacturers and prices for artificial stone

The first samples of artificial stone, released back in the 60s of the twentieth century, were quite expensive pleasure and in some cases surpassed natural stone in price. Now this situation has changed to the opposite. But it would be unfair to consider artificial stone as a cheap material, especially when it comes to artificial stone from foreign manufacturers. The first companies on the Ukrainian market were:

- South Korean corporation "LG CHEMT", which produces stone LG HI-MACS;
- later joined a division of the South Korean corporation "SAMSUNG Cheil Industries Inc";
- later in the USA, materials were developed under the trademarks "Avonite" and "Wilsonart".

Today the bulk of artificial stone manufacturers are concentrated in Spain and Italy. On the Ukrainian market there are such major manufacturers as: "CER-SOM", "CASALGRANDE PADANA", "IRIS FMG", "MARAZZI", "FLOOR GRES", "CAESAR", "ATLAS CONCORDE", "CERIM", "MIRAGE ". The group of Spanish producers is united under the name "Gres de Nules-KERABEN".

The cost of products made of artificial stone depends on the type of product, the amount of material used, and its quality. For flooring, layer thickness is important. As for the price categories, there are three of them:

- economy class (made in Ukraine, Turkey, Poland) - from 10 to 20 USD / m2;

- middle class (Turkey, Spain) - $ 25-50 e. / m2;

- elite class (Germany, Belgium) - 80-200 USD / m2.

As for molded products, a custom-made countertop or bar counter costs an average of 140-170 USD. The price of a monolithic seamless sink 400x370x150 made of artificial stone starts from 60 euros.

"Fake!" - some will say about an artificial stone and will be right. Yes, this finishing material is just an imitation of real natural stone, smooth and cold, but this does not in the least detract from its highest characteristics. He is an imitation, but what a! Perfectly executed, perfect, flawless, insanely beautiful and ... cheap, unlike the original. Yes, the stone is artificial, but so real, so natural and so accurately repeating the color, shape and structure of a natural stone that only a specialist can distinguish one from the other. In this article, we will consider all the pros and cons of artificial stone, the technology of its production, as well as the types of this finishing material.

Varieties of artificial stone

Artificial stone can be made from synthetic stone products based on fillers from natural stone chips and polyester resins, from clay and mineral additives (porcelain stoneware), as well as from colored concrete. The first option, called agglomerate, is used mainly for cladding furniture and interior items (countertops, window sills, bar counters, sinks, etc.), the second and third - for decorating internal and external elements of buildings and structures. Thus, there are only three types of artificial stone, differing from each other in their composition, method of production and scope.

Artificial decorative stone can be made from gray or white cement, sand, natural gravel or crushed stone with the addition of coloring pigments on a mineral basis, allowing to achieve maximum similarity with natural stone. To increase the strength and bearing characteristics of the material, fiber reinforcement is very often used - this is a special additive made of fiberglass, synthetic fibers or steel, which turns artificial stone into a kind of metal.

Artificial stone for interior decoration and exterior cladding of buildings can imitate a variety of breeds of its natural counterpart: malachite, granite, onyx, marble, jasper, sandstone, etc. However, all these types can be divided into three groups depending on the appearance, composition and field of application.

Porcelain stoneware

These artificial products are produced by vibrocompression under very high pressure. At the end of pressing, the material is fired, which consolidates the effect obtained. The composition of porcelain stoneware includes feldspar, several types of clay, various mineral additives and coloring pigments.

In appearance, porcelain stoneware resembles ceramic tiles or glass, but not stone. It is very durable and resistant to all kinds of influences and temperature changes. However, it may not withstand the "invasion" of hydrofluoric acid, which easily comes into contact with glass.

The texture of porcelain stoneware can have a variety of incarnations: it can be glossy, matte, glazed, and embossed.

Agglomerates

Agglomerates include materials that contain polyester resin and various fillers such as limestone, marble chips, granite. Agglomerates have a huge variety of colors and can imitate a wide variety of natural stones. This finishing material has high compressive strength and bending strength, and is also able to withstand very strong frosts.

The disadvantages of agglomerates can be attributed to their "light", instability to abrasion and exposure to certain chemicals, as well as the impossibility of using them as a floor covering when installing underfloor heating. In the latter case, products that are heated from the side of the heating system are simply deformed and become unsuitable for further use.

The strength characteristics of the agglomerates depend on the filler. So, if quartzite is a part of an artificial stone, then such a product in its strength will practically in no way be inferior to porcelain stoneware.

The main area of \u200b\u200bapplication of agglomerates is cladding of furniture and interior items. Countertops, window sills, bar counters, finished with such material, look as if they were carved from a single piece of stone, and the stone chips that are part of them only enhance this impression.

Artificial stone made of colored concrete

The composition of such a stone includes Portland cement, sand, fillers from crumbs, expanded clay, pumice, plasticizers, coloring pigments, reinforcing additives and water repellents. The scope of application of such a man-made stone is quite large, because it can be used for both interior and exterior decoration.

There are few types of artificial stone, but enough to turn the interior of the house or the surrounding area into a real masterpiece.

Characteristics of artificial stone

• Structure and integrity - products made of artificial stone look as if they were cut from a single piece of stone, and their structure does not change its properties throughout the depth of the material.
• High strength - the tests carried out have shown that, in terms of a number of mechanical properties, artificial analogues of natural stone are practically in no way inferior in strength to steel or iron.
• Moisture resistance - products made of artificial stone do not absorb moisture at all and do not react in any way to changes in moisture, therefore, fungus or mold will never start on their surface.
• Chemical resistance - artificial stone finishing can be used even on the facades and basements of city buildings, which are often subjected to aggressive attack by harsh chemicals, what then can we say about an ordinary kitchen or garage.
• Durability - products made of artificial stone are not subject to erosion, as happens with a natural counterpart, they are not afraid of wind and water, which means they will last almost forever.
• Fire safety - man-made stone is non-flammable and has low thermal conductivity, which opens up wide opportunities for creative ideas. They can be used to cover not only walls, but also fireplaces, stoves, fireproof areas, etc.
• Exceptional maintainability - even if the artificial stone received any damage, up to a split, it can always be returned to its original appearance.
• Beauty - products made of man-made stone are incredibly beautiful and attractive. It is difficult to achieve such sophistication with the help of natural analogues, because each stone is individual in its own way, and artificial options can be arranged in the way that is necessary.

Brief technology for the manufacture of artificial stone

Artificial stone is made using a special technology using polyurethane or plastic molds. First, resin and filler (cement and filler) are mixed in a vacuum mixer, then this mixture is poured into molds for artificial stone, and when the composition is completely set and cools down, the products can be easily removed. To see this process with your own eyes, you can watch a short video clip, which clearly shows how you can make an artificial stone at home.

Forms, by the way, can have a variety of sizes and patterns, which allows you to create interesting and unusual compositions: it can be a form in the form of a seabed with shells, pearls and shells, a form in the form of ancient blocks from which fortresses were built, or a round form in the form saw cut. In general, the manufacturer's fantasy is unlimited here, and the more it manifests itself, the more income it can bring to its “owner”.

Advantages of artificial stone

The advantages of artificial stone include:

• Ease of processing
• Convenience of transportation
• Less weight compared to natural counterparts

An artificial stone is attached to a special glue or ordinary cement mortar, and in the event of cracks or chips, all these shortcomings are quickly leveled with the same mortar or a small piece of material glued to the place of damage. No special care is required for the surface of the artificial stone, however, it may be necessary to treat it with a water-repellent composition if the stone, which is not very suitable for outdoor use, is in long-term contact with water.

Many manufacturers of artificial stone create entire collections that make it possible to bring to life the most daring ideas and fantasies. The variety of shapes, colors and textures makes it possible to decorate with man-made stone not only walls and floors, but also door and window openings, pediments, corners and other structural elements of buildings and structures.

But that's not all! Artificial stone, the price of which is much lower than that of natural stone, makes it possible to use it on much larger areas, because the cost of purchasing the material and its installation will be incommensurably lower than similar actions, but taken against natural stone.

Disadvantages of artificial stone

In general, the disadvantages of artificial stone can hardly be called disadvantages, because it is only inferior to its natural counterpart in some parameters. Man-made stone samples are less durable and resistant to abrasion, but this "remark" does not apply to all types, but only to agglomerates. In addition, some types of artificial stones “do not like” the sun, chemicals and high or low temperatures, and some “models” are also exposed to moisture, therefore, require additional protection by processing with special hydrophobic compounds.

What else do manufacturers offer?

Manufacturers are constantly on the lookout for new materials to help designers and architects bring their ideas to life. It was in this search that the formula of the unique acrylic stone staron was found, which is distinguished by unsurpassed hardness and strength.

This environmentally friendly, practical and trendy material has created the newest standard in interior decoration. The stone is perfectly smooth, without the slightest hint of unevenness or cracks, it is pleasant to the touch and looks like a product of mineral origin. But most importantly, staron is an artificial stone that allows you to make architectural and decorative objects of any size from it without seams. Thanks to the technology of "seamless gluing", the material is easily restored and quickly brought to an ideal state.

Progress will not stop there, be sure! There will be new, even more perfect, formulas that will make it possible to improve the characteristics of an artificial stone to the level of a natural one, and even surpass it to some extent.

Artificial stone can be found more and more often in the decoration of the premises of apartments and houses. Its popularity is easily explained by its high aesthetic and technical characteristics. The variety of types of this material allows you to choose it for any color shades of the interior and for the intended style solution.

Artificial stone for interior wall decoration can have performance characteristics that differ from each other, depending on the basis on which it is produced, and, accordingly, significantly differ in price. To know what types of such original finishes are produced today, and which one is better to choose for decorating the premises of an apartment or house, it makes sense to consider the most demanded of them.

Read the step-by-step instructions, how, in a new article on our portal.

The main types of artificial stone

Artificial stone is subdivided not only by its external relief and colors, but also by the material of manufacture. Nowadays, in hardware stores you can find decorative finishes of this type, made on the basis of cement, gypsum, quartz and acrylic. In addition, there is such an unusual material as "flexible stone", produced in canvas or tiles.

Artificial stone based on cement

This type of artificial stone is made from a composition based on Portland cement, to which materials such as sand, plasticizers, coloring pigments, hydrophobic substances and reinforcing additives are added. The scope of use of such a stone is wide enough, and it may well be used for finishing both internal and external surfaces.

The varieties of artificial stone based on cement are enough to choose one of them for decorating a living space, making an original design.

The main advantages of cement-based artificial stone

Cement-based artificial stone can be characterized as follows:

• The high strength of the surface decorated with this material makes it resistant to most mechanical influences.
• Cement artificial stone is moisture resistant, does not react to changes in humidity in the environment and is not a favorable environment for the formation of microflora colonies.
• Resistance to any chemical attack allows you to use this finish in absolutely any room, as well as for
• The long service life makes it possible for a long time to forget about repairs in those rooms where artificial stone is used for decoration.
• The fire safety of the material does not limit its use in any areas of an apartment or house - it can be hallways and corridors, balconies, as well as walls of stoves and fireplaces.
• The possibility of self-repair of cement-based artificial stone is very important. In case of damage or chips, it can always be restored and given its original appearance.
• The aesthetics of the finishing material is undeniable, especially since it is produced in various versions, imitating numerous types of natural stone. In addition, this type of stone is perfectly combined with plastered surfaces with different reliefs.

It must be said about the lack of this material. Artificial finishing stone on a cement basis has a rather large weight, which somewhat complicates its laying. To facilitate the installation process, you need to choose the right adhesive composition with which the cladding will be carried out.

fake diamond

Manufacturing material

It is quite possible to make an artificial stone on a cement basis at home.

To make a stone at home, you will need the following materials:

• Portland cement.
• Fine river sand.
• Plasticizer, which can be used as PVA glue.
• Fiberglass mesh for reinforcement.
• Clean tap water.

The tools required to work in the manufacture of any type of artificial stone are not very diverse. Of these you need to prepare:

• Capacity for mixing the solution.
• Electric drill with mixer attachment.
• Putty knife.
• Selected silicone or polyurethane mold for pouring mortar.

Manufacturing works are carried out in the following order:

• The first step is to mix the dry mass, consisting of sand and cement, taken in a 3: 1 ratio.
• If a dry dye is chosen, then it is also added to the mass of cement and sand. All ingredients are thoroughly mixed using a mixer.
• Then, water and 250 grams of PVA glue per 8 liters of solution are added to the mixture, which should have the consistency of thick sour cream. If the dye is chosen as a liquid, then it is added at the stage of mixing the solution with water.
• The finished mixture is laid out in a mold up to half its height, then it is shaken. It is very good if you manage to make something like a vibrating table - the process of filling the forms with a solution will be much easier.

• The next step is to lay a reinforcing mesh of the required size on the mortar.
• On top of the grid, the rest of the mass of the solution is laid out, compacted (shaken down) as much as possible and leveled with a spatula along the height of the walls of the form.
• After the mortar has set, a grid with a depth of about 5 mm is drawn on the back of each tile with a sharp object. It is necessary for better adhesion of the tile to the wall during cladding.

After the performed manipulations, the solution in the forms is left to dry for 12-16 hours, after which the resulting fragments are removed from the mold and laid out on a flat surface. They should be in this position until completely dry.

After the finished stones are removed from the mold, the latter must be rinsed well immediately.

Gypsum artificial stone

Gypsum has long been widely used for the manufacture of various decorative elements of the interior - artificial stone is no exception. The material has excellent qualities that are ideal for interior decoration. These advantages include:

• Environmentally friendly finishes.
• Heat and sound insulating properties of the material.
• Practicality and affordability.
• The artificial stone is light in weight, which simplifies its installation.
• There is a possibility of repair and restoration.

Artificial gypsum finishing stone can also be made independently, but at the same time it is necessary to take into account the property of the base material to set quickly, so you should not knead a large amount of mortar. It needs to be prepared as much as necessary for pouring into one mold.

So, to make this type of stone you will need:

• White gypsum G5.
• Slaked lime.
• Pure water.
• Dry pigment or water-based paint.

If there is no desire to calculate the proportions that need to be observed when mixing the solution, you can use a ready-made dry composition for the manufacture of stone, which has a very characteristic name "Kamedel". This dry building mixture is designed specifically for the independent production of this finishing material.

Tools are required the same as when mixing cement mortar.

The process of making a stone from this material is carried out in the following sequence:

• The proportions are determined as follows: 1 kg of gypsum will require 600 ÷ 700 ml of water and 150 ÷ \u200b\u200b200 grams of lime.
• First, the required amount of water is poured into the mixing container, in which the dye is mixed, if provided by the selected stone model.

• Then, gypsum is poured into the water and it is thoroughly mixed with a mixer, after which lime is added to the solution, and it is well mixed again. The mixture turns out to be quite liquid, which is convenient when filling out a form with it.
• Next, the mold is placed on a flat surface. It is recommended to check the horizontalness of its installation with a building level, otherwise the back side of the stone will turn out to be uneven, which means that the masonry will be sloppy.
• Sometimes the dye is chaotically passed through the molds - this process is carried out to give the stone a more natural color.

• In the next step, the solution is poured evenly into each of the mold cells. Due to the fact that the gypsum mass will have a liquid consistency, in the manufacture of stone, you can do without a vibration table, which is usually used to compact the mass in molds during factory production.

• When the mold is filled, the excess mortar must be removed with a wide spatula. The spatula is gently pressed against the mold partitions, and the plaster is leveled with smooth movements along them.

• If all the stages of the technological process are observed, then after 35 ÷ 40 minutes the resulting blanks can be removed from the molds and laid out on the shelves for complete solidification and strength gain.

• If no dye was added to the solution, then it is better to color the stone after fixing it to the wall, otherwise the tinting may be heterogeneous.

Here it is necessary to add that the composition of the mixture for making a stone may include, in addition to gypsum, and other ingredients. For example, fine sand, asbestos and white cement, as well as other materials, are often added to the solution.

Is it possible to make the required matrices yourself?

It turns out that this is also an operation quite affordable for the diligent home master! Details of the process of making molds and casting facing tiles from different materials can be found in the instruction article posted on our portal.

Acrylic artificial stone

We can say that artificial acrylic stone has only positive qualities, with the exception of a high price. True, one cannot discount also damage to its surface by abrasive materials.

This material is widely used today for the decoration of interiors of residential and public premises, as well as tabletops for kitchen work tables, window sills, kitchen sinks and bathroom sinks. Such widespread use was made possible by the amazing qualities of this material:

• Ecological cleanliness.
• High strength.
• Absolute moisture resistance.
• The material is not flammable (however, at high temperatures it can lose strength and melt, but without emitting substances harmful to humans).
• Wear-resistant, and if damaged, it can be easily restored.
• Lightweight, easy to wall mount.
• Acrylic artificial stone is antistatic, does not attract dust and dirt. Since any finish requires periodic cleaning, it is simply wiped off with a soft cloth.

Factory made acrylic artificial stone contains the following ingredients:

• Environmentally friendly natural minerals extracted from white clay, which make up 75% of the total volume of the material.
• Stone chips obtained from marble, jasper, granite, serpentine, sandstone, amazonite, etc.
• Acrylic resin (polymethyl methacrylate) is a synthetic material.
• Natural coloring pigments that do not dissolve in water and organic solvents. It is thanks to them that the stone has numerous bright, transparent and rich shades.

The production of acrylic stone is a complex technological process that requires special equipment. It includes several stages:

• Preparation of forms. They should be made of metal, glass, polyurethane or silicone. Their inner part is coated with silicone or wax grease, which will prevent the composition from sticking to the walls of the mold.
• Then, in a vacuum mixer, all components are mixed. This device allows you to avoid the formation of air bubbles in the resulting mass.
• The finished material is poured by continuous casting.
• Further, the mass solidifies.
• After the composition has set, the products are removed from the molds and additionally processed on special equipment.

If you want to make this finishing material at home, you can try to carry out this process yourself, choosing all the necessary ingredients and a suitable shape. However, there is no sure guarantee that the stone will possess all the qualities mentioned above.

The process should take place at a temperature not lower than +25 degrees, in the same sequence as described above. For work, you will need the following materials (their number is indicated as a percentage):

• Acrylic resin 25%.
• Hardener for acrylic resin 3 ÷ 4%.
• Filler - fine stone chips, washed sand, gravel or other minerals - 70%.
• Coloring pigments.

Small size artificial acrylic stone will be ready in about three hours after pouring the mass into the mold. Once it has completely solidified, it can be sanded if necessary.

Quartz Artificial Stone

Quartz Artificial Stone

Quartz stone can be of various shapes and can be used for surface finishing both inside and outside the house.

The material is made from a natural mineral - vein quartz, with the addition of high-quality polyester resin and coloring pigments. Quartz in this mass is 90 ÷ 93% of the total volume, the remaining 7 ÷ 10% are binder resins and coloring substances.

The manufacturing technology of this material in the factory is identical to the production process of acrylic finishing stone, that is, the mixture is mixed under vacuum and high temperatures created.

• The vein quartz, used as the main ingredient, is crushed into small pieces, washed, dried and sorted into fractions of different sizes.
• Further, depending on the selected color range and texture surface, crushed quartz is mixed with coloring pigments.
• An unsaturated polyester resin is added to the resulting mixture, which binds the constituent ingredients.
• Then the prepared forms are filled with the resulting mass.

• The readiness time of the finishing material will depend on the selected binder.

As a rule, all information about the ingredient composition of the finished material is indicated on its packaging.

A distinctive feature of a composite quartz stone is its high strength and resistance to mechanical stress and high temperatures. In addition, it is completely waterproof.

Thanks to all these qualities, such material is used for the manufacture of countertops, window sills and sinks. Finishing the walls with composite artificial stone makes their surfaces invulnerable to any impact, since no chips, cracks form on it, and no dirt collects. At the same time, the polyester binder resin gives the stone a certain elasticity, which allows it to withstand even tensile, compressive and bending loads.

Quartz decorative stone can also be tried at home using the recommendations for making acrylic finishing material.

If there is no desire to engage in independent production of artificial stone, then you can familiarize yourself with the models that can be found on sale, and also find out their approximate price. So it will be easier to navigate and calculate what will become more profitable - to purchase ready-made material for decoration, or to make it yourself.

Below is a table of popular models of artificial stone produced by various companies. The coloring of all the presented models is carried out in bulk, during their manufacture, but may then have additional decorative surface tinting.

Company manufacturer	Composition (filler)	Model name, retail price m², (conditional price linked to US $)
		Laminate	Natural shape	Sawn
VILLA DAVINCHI (Russia)	Concrete ceramics (ceramic chips)	"Talento", "Ortika" 28; 33	"Villages", Palmeri 23; 24,5; 36	"Castello", Montebello 36; 23; 24,5
DEKO STONE (Russia)	Sand, expanded clay	"Colorado", Deco Stone 36; 39	"Alcatraz" 35 ÷ 36	"Ancient Wall" "Russian yard" "Elegant", "Palace" 36 ÷ 37
FORELAND (Russia)	Sand, expanded perlite	"Vaulted slate" "Edelweiss", Elbrus 36 ÷ 38	"Fortress wall", "Mountain Rock" "Selenite", "Kungur", "River stone" 36 ÷ 38	"Wild stone" 23, "Dolenit", Eurok, Elegance, "Louis", "Bastion", "Nereus", "Tradyrok" 36 ÷ 38
EUROKAM (Russia-Belgium)	Pumice, mineral filler, plasticizer	"Arclen" 35 ÷ 36	"Sever", "Foite" 31 ÷ 36	"Provimce" 35 ÷ 36
KAMROCK (Russia)		"Rocky Mountain" 27; 36; 97. "Ancient layer" 26; 36	Terran "Rough chip" 26 ÷ 36	"Old lock", "Weathered Tuff" "Dolomite" 22; 26; 36
CHELSEA GROUP (Russia)	Sand, expanded clay	"Versailles", "Monaco" 33; 36	Biarritz, "Burgundy", "Alesstone", Orly 25.6 ÷ 36	"Loire", Brittany, "Salon de Provence", "Marseilles" 22 ÷ 36
Ecolit Consortium (Russia)	Sand, expanded clay, mineral filler	"Stone Pile" "Mountain Range" "Wisconsin" 25.6 ÷ 36	"Feudal estate" "Broken line" "Limestone", "Ohio", "River Cliff" "Monarch", "Stone cascade" "Quartz" 25.6 ÷ 36	"Medieval castle", Berkshire, "England", "Stone ledge" "Iowa" 25.6 ÷ 36

How to decorate walls with artificial stone?

If there is no experience in such work, then first you need to familiarize yourself with the nuances of performing such a facing. Detailed information is available on the pages of our portal in the publication.

A special kind - flexible "stone"

Flexible artificial stone is not as popular as other finishing options, although it is a successful way to mimic a natural finish. However, despite the fact that this finish appeared on the market relatively recently, it is confidently gaining popularity due to its ease of installation and a relatively affordable price, in comparison with natural stone and other artificial varieties of it.

The flexible "stone" consists of two layers - it is a textile base, with sandstone chips or the thinnest cut of natural stone applied to its surface by means of polymers. The outer layer of such a finish not only visually repeats the structure of a natural material, but also almost does not yield to it in terms of wear resistance.

Webs of flexible "stone" are made according to a special technology and mainly - in places of direct extraction of sandstone, which is the raw material for this material. The raw material is combined with the textile base using an acrylic dispersion.

Flexible stone is produced in the form of canvases, wallpaper or slabs with a thickness of 2 to 5 mm, which can be of different lengths and widths. The most common sizes are 50 × 600, 200 × 300, 800 × 400 and 2600 × 1300 mm, but in some cases the material is also made according to individual orders.

During installation, the flexible stone is cut using a construction knife or scissors. In the process of dividing the web into separate parts, no cracks or breaks are formed on it.

Many manufacturers, in order to avoid damage during transportation, cover the front part of the "stone" with a protective film, which is removed from the finish after its installation on the wall.

The main characteristics of this finishing material include the following qualities:

• The lightness of the canvas is only 3 ÷ 4 kg / m².
• Elasticity and flexibility.
• Absolute incombustibility.
• Ecological cleanliness.
• Resistance to a wide range of temperatures: from - 45 to + 150 degrees.
• Possibility of mounting on any surface.
• Water resistance and vapor permeability of flexible stone.
• The antistatic properties of the canvases make it possible to minimize their maintenance.
• Long service life.
• Affordable price for products.
• The light transmission of some types of flexible stone makes it possible to arrange interior lighting for such a finish.
• A variety of textured patterns and colors.

To make a flexible "stone" you don't need complicated equipment, so you can try to make it at home.

For work, you will need, in principle, the same tools as in the manufacture of traditional artificial stone. To carry out all operations was convenient, you need a spacious table and good lighting. Drying the finished material at home is carried out in a well-ventilated area. The canvases are laid out on racks.

From the materials, it will be necessary to prepare fine stone chips and sifted sand, which is processed with coloring pigments.

flexible artificial stone

• The base on which the crumb layer will be applied can be fiberglass fabric, which is processed with an adhesive (acrylic, silicone-acrylic, styrene-acrylic glue or polyester resin) with a layer of up to 2 mm.

• On the layer of glue, mineral chips are applied and evenly distributed, which should be immersed in the glue. The crumb can be applied in stripes of different shades, or lay a single-color layer, on which, after the glue dries, paint can be applied using a spray gun or a brush.
• To level the poured mineral layer, thick glass is sometimes placed on top of it, which will cover the entire canvas.
• After the glue dries, the flexible stone canvases are cut to the intended size for the most convenient installation on the wall.

Installation of a flexible stone has some nuances that you need to know when getting started. The process is somewhat similar to pasting ordinary wallpaper, but it also has significant differences.

• To install a seamless wall covering, you will need a building hair dryer, a rubber and regular roller, as well as a notched and regular trowel.

• Except for flexible stone canvases. To prepare the surface of the walls, stick and cover the finishing material, you will need a primer, glue and acrylic-based varnish.
• The surface for flexible stone installation must be flat, without significant damage. Before gluing the material, the walls must be carefully treated with an acrylic primer. This layer will increase the adhesion between the finishing material and the surface.
• The glue can be applied to the canvases of the finishing material or to the wall. An even trowel is usually used for this process. A notched trowel is passed over the applied glue, leaving grooves that will ensure the most even distribution of the adhesive base.
• Installation of flexible material canvases is carried out end-to-end, while tiles can be glued at a certain distance from each other.

Butt-bonding of the material results in a seamless finish. When installing a tile, the seams between it, as in the case of ceramic material, will need to be carefully repaired after the glue has completely dried.

• When choosing a seamless finishing method, a construction hairdryer is used to mask the seams. With the help of it, the edges of the canvases are heated, which, as it were, ensures their fusion among themselves. For a stronger connection, the heated joint of the canvases is rolled with a rubber roller. Using the same tool, you can easily give the desired configuration to a tile or canvas, for example, when pasting an arch or column.

In addition, the hair dryer is used to warm up sheets or tiles when bending them at the corners. In such cases, when gluing, the material is additionally pressed with a wooden spatula, which ensures a reliable and neat fit to the wall.

• Installation of canvases is carried out according to the same principle as with the use of ordinary wallpaper - starting from a line beaten off along the ceiling or a fixed ceiling plinth. To maintain the quality of the finish, it is best to stick the canvases together, since this material is still much heavier than ordinary wallpaper.
• The tiles are installed from the lower plinth or from the broken line along the floor.
• If, when gluing the material in difficult places, a hall with a crack formed on it, this can be repaired with an acrylic primer. It penetrates deep into the crease, and then it is rubbed with a piece of flexible stone.
• After the completion of the installation work and the glue has dried, the surface of the flexible stone is covered with a special acrylic varnish, which is applied using a roller.

Now that information has been received about what material the artificial stone is made of and about its main characteristics, you can opt for one of the existing options. Further, it remains to make a decision - whether to make it yourself, trying to save a decent amount on this, or to buy the finished product, and thereby save yourself from unnecessary trouble.

An interesting video, offered to the reader's attention, will additionally help to make the right choice:

DIY imitation of masonry on the wall

There are other options for the formation of an artificial stone, which are within the power of any master, even without experience. In order to master these techniques, it is enough to practice on a small sheet of plywood. From the proposed ones, you can choose the option that is more suitable in terms of the ratio of the complexity of execution to the level of preparedness of the home master.

Read also useful information on how to do it in our new article on our portal.

One of these methods is so simple that it does not even require any complicated tools, since it can be completely produced with improvised, most simple devices. Another complication is that a polyurethane or silicone stamp is required to reproduce the embossed pattern, which, however, can also be made independently.

The convenience of these methods lies in the fact that for their implementation can be used any building material used for the manufacture of stone by pouring the mixture into the molds that have been described above. The choice of material mainly depends on which wall will be decorated: external or internal. For example, it is better to choose a cement-based mixture for facade decoration, and any material is suitable for interior decoration of surfaces, the main thing is that it is environmentally friendly and does not exude an unpleasant odor.

The first option is with manual relief creation

The advantage of this method of forming a stone is that any relief can be chosen for the wall at its discretion, with which one would like to decorate the surface. Moreover, in the process of decoration, you can change, correct the drawing, if when applying the stone forms to the wall, something does not like it or some original idea comes to mind.

The wall can be partially or completely covered with a stone relief, and for this you do not have to adjust or saw anything. Due to the fact that such a technology of imitation does not require the application of physical force, all the design work may well be performed by female hands. And most importantly, when making such a decoration, you can improvise, as it gives an opportunity to use the creative abilities of the master.

Further, the option of creating a fairly simple relief of the masonry will be presented. Although, it should be noted that it can be even simpler, for example, imitation of flat brickwork, which is also often performed using the same technique.

To paint such reliefs, white acrylic paint and pigments for coloring it are used.

Illustration
	As with any other wall cladding, the creation of artificial stone begins with the preparation of their surfaces. If the wall is relatively flat and has a solid plaster layer well fixed to the wall, then the wall only needs to be treated with a deep penetration primer.
	Surface treatment with a primer will create conditions for high adhesion between the wall and the material from which the relief will be formed. If the wall requires repair, then first the appropriate operations are carried out - this can be the application of ordinary plaster or the fixing of dry plaster, after which the surface is also primed. It should be emphasized that ideal surface smoothness is not required for wall decoration using this technology.
	The first step is to mark the surface to be designed using a simple pencil. If this is a certain area of \u200b\u200bthe wall, then it must be immediately limited to lines. Further, on the wall, also with the help of a pencil, a drawing of the future relief is applied. If you plan to create a composition in which it is necessary to adhere to the ideal horizontal and vertical lines, then you will need a regular or laser building level to work.
	After the drawing is applied to the surface, and in the case when it is planned to create a relief using acrylic putty, the wall is additionally treated with acrylic primer, which includes a fine-grained quartz filler. The primer is applied using a roller with a foam pad.
	The next step is to stick narrow strips of masking tape over the pattern. It tears easily and adheres well to any surface, so it will be easy to form strips of various widths from it. They are glued along the contour of each element of the future relief.
	Here you need to clarify one important point - all the adhesive tape to be glued must be pointwise connected to each other, and its ends must go beyond the boundaries of the relief and remain free. This is necessary in order to be able to freely remove this "grid" after the layer of acrylic putty has been applied. In addition, a wide strip of scotch tape should limit the area of \u200b\u200bthe relief - in this example, it is glued along the upper edge of the future "masonry".
	A putty mixture or white cement-based mortar is applied over the glued "lattice" made of scotch tape. The thickness of the applied layer will depend on how deep the relief is planned to be formed. However, it is not recommended to apply too thick a layer - it will be best to emphasize the volume with color when finishing the "masonry".
	It is necessary to apply the mass with a spatula or trowel, leaving stains or other embossed patterns on the surface. The layer thickness in this case should be no more than 2 ÷ 3 mm. If you plan to make a deeper relief, 5 ÷ 6 mm, then the solution can be thrown onto the surface, and then carefully distribute the edges of each sketched area along the contour of the stone drawn on the wall.
	In this case, a layer of small thickness is selected, but it is still necessary to create a relief close to natural stone. For this purpose, a stiff brush is used, which presses and abruptly breaks away from the solution applied to the wall, lifting it slightly.
	The next step is to “cultivate” the raised areas of the solution, slightly smoothing the resulting sharp protrusions. The work is carried out with a trowel or trowel.
	Now the moment has come when it is necessary to remove the masking tape located along the contour of the stone from the wall. In this process, the left loose ends of the tape will help. Pulling one of them, you need to gradually remove the entire glued "grill". In some places, the tape may come off, and to continue removing it, the edges of the strip are pushed off with a utility knife.
	The result should be a relief that from a distance will look as shown in the illustration.
	If you look closely at the relief obtained at this stage of the work, you will notice that it does not resemble what we would like to get in the end. Therefore, the wall still has to be seriously worked with using color.
	But before moving on to applying tinting and creating volume with the help of color, the entire surface is carefully smoothed with a float with medium-grit sandpaper installed on it, or with a stiff brush. However, you should not press the tool strongly against the relief. To create more volume, it is recommended to clean the edges of the "stones" separately in order to slightly round out the clarity of the resulting edges.
	The next operation - different pastel shades of one or several tones, close to each other, are applied to the surface with strokes. To create a deeper visual volume, keep in mind that the lightest spot (highlight) is in the central part of the surface, closer to the light source. The darkest places when creating volume are located on the opposite side of the flare, in the shadow area of \u200b\u200bthe stone, near the seam. It should be borne in mind that the location of highlights and shadows on all elements of the masonry should be almost the same.
	After distributing several shades over the surface, until the paint is absorbed and dried, they are carefully rubbed with a soft cloth, while mixing with each other, but remembering the rule of observing the balance of light and shadow.
	Next, you need to highlight the seams of the "masonry". They can stand out brightly or differ only by a few tones from the main color of the stone. In this version, the seam is given a dark color, but with the further creation of volume, they will somewhat fade into the background.
	This illustration clearly shows that the lighting of the "masonry" occurs on the left side, so the master placed the glare there, applying a light paint to the corresponding face of the "stones". However, it shouldn't look unnatural, so the flare is rubbed out so that its edges smoothly merge with the rest of the surface. After that, the surface must be dried.
	Next, you need to add a little light white paint to the dark paint that was used to mark the seams, and then dilute it with water until it is liquid. With this composition, with the help of a soft brush, the entire surface to be decorated is covered. And immediately, without a pause, this layer of paint is erased with a soft, highly absorbent cloth. The protruding parts of the relief are processed with special care - they leave dark paint in the recesses on the shadow side of the stone. The final step with a thin brush is to emphasize individual areas of the seams on the shadow side, however, these strokes should be barely noticeable.

In order to create volume with color on an almost flat surface of "stones", it is recommended to find a natural sample that has a surface similar to the one that is planned to be imitated on the elements of masonry. Further, placing it in front of you during work, you can consider how light and shadow are distributed over it, transferring this harmony to the artificial "stones in the masonry" being created.

The second option is using a stamp form

This method of decorating walls with an artificial stone can be used to decorate interior and exterior surfaces. The main thing is to choose a suitable material that will be resistant to operating conditions. The technique of forming a relief using a template-stamp is quite simple and available for independent execution.

Let's look at a similar technique step by step with an example - see the table below.

Embossing Masonry with a Stamp - Step by Step

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	In order to reproduce the imitation of masonry on the wall, you will need a dry mix "Ceresit CT24" (for porous concrete walls) or "CT29" (for other bases), from which the mortar will be mixed. In addition, you will need a primer, which is best made from the Ceresit CT85 adhesive mixture mixed with the Ceresit CC81 adhesive additive. The mixture is mixed according to the manufacturer's instructions on the package. To work, you need an electric drill and a mixer attachment.
	In this case, a master class is presented on the technology of wall decoration using a ready-made stamp imitating a "wild stone". The work begins with the application of a deep penetration primer to the surface to be decorated (for smooth concrete surfaces it is better to use "concrete contact"). After it has dried, the mixed primer solution described above is applied to the wall sections using a notched trowel. It should dry well, as its purpose is to create better adhesion for a thicker next plaster layer to the wall surface. So, the first batch to be mixed is for applying a thin adhesive layer to the surface, so you should not make too much mortar.
	When the adhesion layer is finally set, the next step is to apply the main plaster mortar on the prepared surface with a layer of 4 ÷ 6 mm. This work starts from the bottom of the wall. Throwing the solution onto an area of \u200b\u200babout 500 × 500 mm, it is leveled. But at the same time, absolute evenness or smoothness of the base is not required.
	Leveling the mortar is carried out using a wide spatula, trowel or trowel, starting from the bottom of the wall surface, gradually rising up. The thickness of this layer can be 15 to 30 mm.
	Further, the raw plastered surface is treated with an anti-adhesive agent - this must be done so that the stamp does not stick to the solution, but is easily separated from the wall after it is pressed against its surface.
	It is necessary to process not only the surface of the wall, but also the stamp itself. As an anti-adhesive, a special agent or a solvent such as white spirit familiar to all builders can be used. Application is best done with a spray gun, since when spraying, the solution will moisten the entire surface and fall into the most inaccessible recesses of the mold.
	After surface treatment, the stone relief is immediately formed. The stamp is applied to the upper or lower edge of the wall and is pressed with effort against the plaster layer, as it should leave a clear impression on the wet mortar.
	At the next pressing, the stamp is installed so that its elements protruding along the edges, in this case, these are the teeth, are installed in the area not covered by the first print. In this order, they continue to act, covering the entire surface of the wall or its individual sections with a relief.
	When crossing a flat surface of plaster with an angle, the stamp is pressed against it as shown in this illustration, but the teeth should also coincide with the previous stamp.
	Upon completion of this stage of work, a fresh, dry wall should look something like this. It is left to dry completely - this period is also indicated on the packaging bag of the selected plaster solution. Further, the embossed surface must be primed with a deep penetration compound and dried.
	After the soil has dried, the wall is tinted in several shades. They will accentuate the volume and bring the relief closer to natural stone in natural shades.
	First, a layer of paint is applied, which will set the overall color of the surface. It is applied with strokes with a brush, and then spread with a sponge, which will smooth out the edges of the strokes and make the painted layer softer and more even.
	Now, without waiting for the first layer to dry, they apply darker shades, designed to emphasize the depth of the relief volume. To do this, a darker, cold tone is added to the paint of the original color, and then the composition is thoroughly mixed.
	In this case, the master chose an ink-purple paint, which, mixed with pastel ocher, gave the composition a lilac hue.
	This color is applied with short and sometimes dotted strokes, which are located mainly in the deepened areas of the relief over the entire surface.
	As a result of this stage of work, such an unattractive, at first glance, wall should turn out. Don't worry, it will later turn into a real work of art. The main advantage of this method of staining is that it is almost impossible to spoil it, since there is always an opportunity to correct areas of the relief that you did not like.
	The next step is to smooth out clearly defined cold strokes with a sponge with the main layer. Their edges are distributed, mixing with the painted surface, leaving a lilac color only in some recesses of the relief.
	The final stage is the selection of protruding relief elements, one of the light shades. In the example shown, a matte yellow is prepared for this. To get it, a yellow pigment is added to the white and mixes well.
	This shade is applied along the protruding parts of the relief with short strokes, which should repeat the shape of the protrusions. This process is carried out using a sponge, on which there should be a fairly thick paint.
	After that, the edge of the sponge, which should be dipped in water and squeezed out, randomly blur the sharp edges of the applied strokes, merging them with the general composition of the coating. Only small areas of the upper regions of the volumetric relief remain light.
	As a result of applying layers of different colors, a wall is obtained that has a volumetric, beautiful relief imitating a "wild stone", which will reliably adhere to the wall surface. The final stage of work is the processing of artificial stone with a matte decorative varnish "Ceresit CT750 Opal". After that, the surface texture takes on a finished look.
	The embossed wall can be tinted in different shades to the taste of the master or customer. It should be in harmony with the general color scheme of the interior or the facade of the house.
	A few words must be added about one more method of staining an artificial stone reproduced on a wall using a stamp. This technique is suitable for those who are not confident in their ability to correctly select shades of color and apply them in watercolor technique.
	A similar method consists of applying dry powder pigments with a brush to a wet plastered surface before forming a relief on it with a stamp. Having made such staining on a small section of the wall, a three-dimensional pattern is immediately formed on it.
	Then, when the pigment is saturated with moisture from the solution, it is converted with it into a single surface. After the plaster layer has dried, such a stone is also covered with the above-mentioned protective varnish.

So, to work in this technique of reproducing a volumetric drawing, you will need a special stamp, which is not so easy to find. However, if you wish, you can make it yourself.

The original sample of the form can be spied on the Internet, made a drawing and template of the required parameters, sculpted it from plasticine or formed from tile glue. In addition, you can purchase one or more ready-made artificial stone tiles, and then make a silicone or polyurethane casting on them.

How to make a stamp for "masonry" yourself - step by step

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	First of all, you need to prepare the workplace - it should be a spacious table on which the formwork can be used for casting the mold. The bottom of the formwork is placed on the table, which should be 200 mm larger than the manufactured form on each side. Any material with a smooth surface is used as this formwork element, for example, a chipboard panel with a plastic coating.
	Further, the original sample is placed on the shield, from which the matrix will be removed. In this case, paving slabs measuring 305 × 305 × 25 mm are used to make a stamp as a sample with a suitable textured surface. You will need four of them. As already mentioned, homemade models can also be used as a sample, for example, made of plasticine or molded according to the owner's idea from ordinary ceramic tile adhesive. It all depends only on the creativity of the master - and the technology of further work does not change significantly. If a model made from a material porous in structure is used, then it should be coated with a pore-sealing compound. However, experienced craftsmen advise to carry out such processing with any types of samples - the quality of the matrix will only increase from this.
	In this example, for external processing of samples, "Sonite Wax" is used - a paste-like composition based on wax, designed to seal surfaces before pouring them with molding materials. On the market you can find not only imported fillers, but also Russian-made pastes, for example, the composition "Kristallin W16" by "STROYMOST" company is popular.
	The top and side surfaces of the slabs are covered with a sealing compound. After the processed models are dried, they are laid with the embossed side up, on the bottom of the formwork in two rows with a shift of exactly half the slab - this value is important, since when applying relief to the wall, the masonry must continue, therefore the protruding parts of the upper and lower the rows must be exactly the same size. All seams between the plates in this embodiment of the stamp are 10 mm.
	The next step of the slab is drawn exactly along the contour of the unfolded configuration with a pencil, so that a clear line remains.
	After drawing, the elements of the model are removed, since they must be firmly fixed on the base with a quick-drying adhesive mass.
	For this purpose, it is quite possible to use a silicone hot melt adhesive, which is applied along the perimeter of each of the plates using a special gun.
	After applying the glue strips, the sample is laid along the marked contour and pressed against the base. This operation is repeated with all parts used as models. Since this silicone glue hardens quickly, after gluing the last plate, you can proceed to the next operations after 5 ÷ 7 minutes.
	Formwork assembly begins. For this stage of work, you will need slats 10 mm thick and approximately 25 mm wide. And their length should correspond to the dimensions of the sides of the laid slabs. The slats are temporarily installed along the entire perimeter of the slab structure, close to their sides.
	Further, along the rails installed along the perimeter on the bottom of the formwork, marking is also made, since the walls of the formwork will be installed precisely along the outer contour of the temporarily installed rails, which means that it is necessary to outline the lines. In addition, measurements are made on each side of the model along with the fixed rails. This is necessary in order to find the exact side lengths that will be needed to prepare the formwork walls.
	The height of the formwork walls must be at least 75 mm. For their manufacture, you can use the same material as for the base, that is, chipboard panels with a thickness of 18 to 25 mm with an external plastic coating. The next step is to cut out the formwork walls according to the dimensions taken.
	The walls are securely twisted together at each of the corners of the structure with two self-tapping screws. At the same time, the gaps between the plates of the model and the formwork are strictly observed, they should be 10 mm - this is what the temporarily installed slats are for.
	Now the slats laid along the perimeter of the slabs can be removed - they have already played their role. But in order to accurately center the formwork box, wedges made from scraps of the same battens are inserted. They will not allow the box to move until the seams are securely sealed.
	The next step is to close the seams along the entire width and height of the slabs with plasticine. The plastic material is distributed with a finger, and if necessary, it is deepened with a stack.
	At the same time, we must not forget that the surfaces of the seams must be given a shallow relief, which must also leave an impression on the finished polyurethane stamp.
	Excess plasticine, which will come out on the outer plane of the slabs, must be removed, since the prints must be neat. The design takes on something like this.
	Further, all joints of the walls and bottom of the formwork, as well as vertical seams at the corners of the structure, must be sealed with silicone hot glue and allowed to harden well.
	The next step is to cover the surface of the model and the inner walls of the formwork with a release agent. As it, the craftsmen use different materials, including white spirit, petroleum jelly, solid oil and other compounds.
	Now, for the convenience of working with the finished stamp, you need to make comfortable handles for it. To do this, take two pieces of braided nylon tape 50 mm wide and 355 mm long. The segments are bent, their ends are superimposed on each other, by about 35 ÷ 40 mm, and fastened in this place with staple staples.
	Then the handles are put on a long rail and are located at a distance of 300 ÷ 350 mm from each other.
	The rail is installed on the formwork walls and aligned in the center. In this case, this is done along the line dividing the rows of the created model. Such an arrangement will create a balance of the stamp being produced, which is very important for even distribution of forces when obtaining impressions on a plastered wall.
	The hinges should be located from the surface of the plates at a distance of 10 ÷ 15 mm, since they should not be visible on the surface of the stamp after the polyurethane has solidified. The gap created will separate the material of the handles from the surface of the stamp. Please note - the overlap of the tape, fastened with staples, is best positioned so that it is filled with polyurethane.
	The stamp can be made from molding silicone or polyurethane compound, which is designed specifically for casting molds of varying complexity. These materials most often consist of two components, which are mixed with each other immediately before pouring, since the life of two-component compositions is short. Moreover, it can be different for different materials, therefore, before use, you need to carefully study the instructions on the package.
	The compositions are mixed in certain proportions, which are also indicated in the instructions. In addition to the two main components, a liquid color of the selected color is usually added to the mixture. The components are mixed using a mixer attachment installed in an electric drill.
	After mixing, the finished composition is immediately poured into the formwork. It should flow freely over the surface of the slabs, filling all the horizontal space and penetrating into the depressions left at the edges of the installed samples. The filling is done very carefully, with a smooth small flow, so as not to cause aeration of the composition (the appearance of air bubbles), so that the stamp does not turn out to be porous.
	The material is poured in a layer of 30 mm and left to solidify. The maturity time for different materials may also vary. For those shown in this example, it is 48 hours at an air temperature of 23 ÷ 25 degrees and normal air humidity.
	After the specified time, it is necessary to separate the finished stamp from the walls of the formwork. To do this, gently pass between them with a clean spatula. Then, the walls of the formwork are untwisted and removed.
	The finished stamp will look as shown in the illustration. This device can be used to decorate the walls of the basement or to form a relief on the concrete screed of the yard. To decorate the interior walls, it is recommended to make smaller stamps. In the example considered, the very principle of manufacturing this convenient product is presented, and the original model is selected at the request of the master. And how to use such a stamp - we have already talked about this.

Since ancient times, mankind has been using stone in its activities. In former times, the foundations of houses were made from it, walls were erected, stoves were laid. Many fortresses built millennia ago are still monumental structures. Yes, the stone of their walls weathered, cracked, but they still stand.

It was strength and durability that were most appreciated in stone. But natural stone is expensive, since its extraction and transportation is a rather difficult and labor-intensive task, which could not but affect the cost of the stone. Therefore, humanity has long been making attempts to create a certain substance identical in appearance and properties to a natural stone.

In the 19th century, it was possible to do this, as a result of which a durable artificial stone made of concrete, called "Coad", appeared, the properties of which. The process of its production was easy to establish near the construction site, and transportation of artificial stone was much easier and easier than natural.

After it, an artificial stone appeared, containing granite chips in its composition, which made it even closer in appearance and properties to natural material.

If it is necessary to obtain especially durable products, a reinforcing mesh can be used. In terms of strength, such material can surpass not only natural stone, but also metal.

Porcelain stoneware

For its production, the following materials are required:

• kaolin or illite clay;
• quartz sand;
• feldspar;
• pigments based on metal oxides: chromium, iron, manganese.

The components are ground and mixed, receiving a mass, which is then pressed and fired at a temperature of 1200 - 1300 degrees. As a result, the mixture is sintered, forming a product uniform in thickness, practically devoid of pores and having the following properties:

• strength exceeding the same by tens of times;
• frost resistance due to the absence of pores;
• abrasion resistance;
• refractoriness;
• chemical resistance;
• antistatic;
• electrical insulating properties;
• external attractiveness.

Due to these advantages, porcelain stoneware can be used almost everywhere: for cladding floors and walls both outside and inside the building; for cladding; for rooms where static electricity accumulates.

Depending on the type of external surface, the following types of plates are distinguished:

• polished porcelain stoneware - has good dirt-repellent properties, easy to clean, but too slippery for the floor;
• slabs with a natural surface are more difficult to maintain, therefore they are used mainly for cladding utility rooms;
• enameled porcelain stoneware - depending on the type of enamel and surface relief, it, sidewalks, external areas, for technical rooms.
• Slabs with a satin finish - well suited for both home and public spaces.

Agglomerate

Agglomerate is a mixture of components such as:

• crushed quartz (granite, marble);
• pigments;
• high quality polyester resin or cement binder.

Quartz is most often used as a filler, constituting up to 96% of the mixture, since it is the most durable.

Resin stone is more commonly used for interior decoration. Countertops, bar counters, window sills are made of it. For outdoor work - facing of facades or laying, stone is used with a cement binder.

Quartz agglomerate has the following properties:

• it is stronger than natural stone, but at the same time elastic;
• has low water absorption and high frost resistance;
• varied in shades;
• easy to clean;
• the cost is much lower than that of natural stone.

Acrylic stone

It contains the following components:

• mineral filler (60 - 70%);
• acrylic resin.

It is the presence of mineral particles in the mixture that made it possible to call products made from it "stone".
Thus, it is plastic and all its advantages and disadvantages are inherent in it. Among the advantages are the following:

• the ability to manufacture seamless surfaces of any shape and size;
• sufficiently high strength;
• moisture resistance;
• ease of care.

The main disadvantages are the tendency to scratch and low thermal resistance.
Acrylic stone, kitchen aprons and even window sills. For other works, it is practically not used.

Advantages and disadvantages of using artificial stone

The main disadvantage of artificial stone is still the lower durability of some of its types in comparison with natural stone.
But there are a lot of advantages:

• Low cost in comparison with products made from natural materials.
• Environmental friendliness - all the components used to make any kind of artificial stone do not harm the human body.
• Low weight, which does not create any significant additional load on the building structures.
• Ease of installation.
• No pre-treatment required before use.
• In appearance it differs little from natural stone.
• and colors that expand the choice of decor.
• Reliable protection of surfaces from moisture and other atmospheric influences.
• It is possible to combine artificial stone with any other types of decor and create unusual compositions.
• Some types of artificial stone have a high degree of thermal insulation.
• High chemical resistance.
• Durability is due to the fact that the surface of the artificial stone is almost not subject to erosion, so it can serve for more than 100 years.

Artificial quartz stone (quartz agglomerate) and acrylic stone are relatively new materials for our market, which every year are increasingly competing with laminated chipboard in the manufacture of countertops, as well as plastic and wood in the manufacture of window sills.

CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF ARTIFICIAL STONE

Acrylic stone and quartz agglomerate are two types of artificial stone that have been widely used in furniture making and interior decoration in recent years.
If you ask yourself what explains the rapid growth in popularity of this material, then the answer is obvious: a unique combination of qualities. Here is everything that consumers who are looking for a countertop or windowsill most appreciate:

• Strength
• Durability
• Hygiene
• Immunity to household chemicals and short-term exposure to high temperatures
• No special care requirements
• Large range of colors and a variety of decors

The artificial stone owes its valuable properties to the components that make up its composition and the manufacturing technology. Without going into technological details, we note that both quartz and acrylic stone have a dense homogeneous structure and are characterized by the absence of even the smallest cracks and pores. This ensures high hygiene of the material, resistance to stains and dirt, easy care of products.
All of these properties, combined with strength and durability, are truly irreplaceable, especially when it comes to kitchen countertops and worktops.
Another important aspect is the variety of colors and decors. Artificial stone does not limit designers in the choice of colors, allowing them to design bright and expressive interiors.
While acrylic and quartz stone have a lot in common, they have a number of differences.
Quartz agglomerate products and objects - this is an indicator of wealth and respectability.
The glossy surfaces of quartz slabs have a subdued sheen similar to that of natural stone.
Quartz countertops, window sills and other products are characterized by increased wear resistance, they are more resistant to scratches than those made of acrylic stone.
At the same time, quartz products are several times heavier than acrylic ones. With more than 90% quartz chips in its composition, quartz stone is almost the same by weight as natural.
The joints of individual parts of quartz stone cannot be made invisible, while acrylic structures can be made seamless.
It is quite difficult to repair or restore a product made of quartz agglomerate, since for this it has to be dismantled and transported to the workshop.
Quartz stone products are much more expensive than acrylic products. The high cost is due to the price of the stone itself and directly depends on the complexity of processing the material.
Acrylic stone cheaper and easier to process than quartz, products made from it are more affordable.
Acrylic surfaces are softer than quartz surfaces and are more likely to be scratched. The good news, though, is that acrylic stone is easy to repair - minor damage can be repaired at home.
Designers love acrylic stone for its seamlessness - products made from this material look monolithic, even if they are assembled from several pieces.
If we talk about the shortcomings of acrylic stone, the main one is the lack of scratch resistance. In addition, acrylic surfaces do not like very hot objects. However, a countertop made of any material should be protected from temperature shock.

USE IN THE FURNITURE INDUSTRY

In the manufacture of furniture, artificial stone was originally used for the manufacture of countertops. Subsequently, they began to make bar furniture, bathroom countertops, as well as shelves and racks from it.

Kitchen countertops made of acrylic stone and quartz agglomerate
The triumphant procession of artificial stone in the furniture industry began with kitchen countertops. It is as if this material was conceived for the production of kitchen worktops - its properties meet the most stringent requirements for the material used for worktops.
Today, the kitchen countertop can be viewed as a separate piece of furniture. It is often ordered separately and installed at the final stage, after the manufacture and installation of kitchen cabinets and cabinets.
The tabletop itself plays such an important role in the interior that many use the services of designers when choosing a stone and developing a tabletop configuration.
As a rule, the width of the kitchen countertop (work surface) is made 60-65 cm. The thickness of the slab varies, but it is recommended to make it 3 or more centimeters. Slabs with a thickness of 6 mm are more suitable for wall cladding than for a work surface that will experience significant stress during operation.
The work surface is not the only piece of kitchen furniture that uses artificial stone countertops. In modern spacious kitchens, you can often find bar counters and the so-called islands, whose countertops are also made of stone.

Artificial stone furniture for bars, cafes, restaurants
Furniture in catering establishments puts forward increased requirements for the strength and hygiene of countertops. Therefore, artificial stone in cafes, bars, restaurants is a familiar material. An important factor is the unpretentiousness of the artificial stone in terms of caring for it.
Acrylic stone and quartz agglomerate offer designers many color options when decorating interiors. Thus, artificial stone meets the requirements of both practitioners and artists, allowing you to create comfortable and durable furniture in use and at the same time a stylish, bright and expressive atmosphere of the institution.

Artificial stone sinks and washbasins
Sinks, in particular sinks, made of quartz agglomerate and acrylic stone are increasingly competing with sinks and sinks made of other materials every day. Although products made of artificial stone cannot be called cheap, many opt for them, appreciating the high aesthetics and practicality of this option.
Most often, an artificial stone countertop is ordered with an integrated sink made of the same material. Acrylic stone allows seamless installation of the sink. In the case of quartz stone, the sink can be built in so that the seam is barely visible.

Sinks, countertops, shelving and other bathroom furniture
The properties of artificial stone allow it to be used as a versatile material for decorating bathrooms.
Countertops with an integrated sink, shelves, shower trays, towel racks - in fact, all furniture and other interior items in the bathroom can be made of artificial stone.
Given that quartz and acrylic surfaces do not absorb moisture and are not susceptible to mold and moisture stains, this material is an excellent option for sanitary facilities, bathrooms and showers.

USE IN DESIGNING INTERIORS

Walls, floors, steps, window sills, podiums, arches, decorative columns - all of this can be faced with artificial stone or made of it.

Quartz and acrylic stone wall panels
Artificial stone wall cladding is most often done in kitchens, bathrooms and washrooms. For this purpose, sheets of smaller thickness can be used than in the manufacture of countertops: quartz agglomerate - 13 mm, acrylic stone - 4, 6 and 9 mm.
Walls faced with artificial stone are a good and practical solution for halls and other premises of shopping malls, airports, train stations, hotels, metro stations.

Artificial stone window sills
Window sills are the second most popular artificial stone product after kitchen countertops.
Plastic, wood and other materials cannot compete with acrylic and quartz stone in terms of performance and decorativeness.
Beautiful, durable and durable, low-maintenance and easy to clean, artificial stone window sills from a familiar accessory of window openings turn into a decoration of the room. A great advantage is the wide choice of colors and patterns of stone, which allows architects and designers to implement interesting color solutions.

Ladders, steps and podiums
Stairs and steps in private houses and apartments with several levels were traditionally made of wood. Today the situation has changed, and artificial stone is replacing the tree.
Products made of acrylic and quartz stone are superior to wooden products in strength, practicality, and a wide range of colors.
A softer, but at the same time warmer to the touch, acrylic stone is more often used in residential premises. Acrylic podiums and steps are comfortable and beautiful, easy to clean and resist the build-up of dirt and bacteria.
Quartz stone is more high-status, in terms of price and appearance, it is close to natural. Products made from it are used in the design of public buildings, where a large flow of people puts forward high demands on the wear resistance of the material.

Interior details: partitions, steles, arches
A bright accent of the interior decor of residential and public premises is a partition or a stele made of a translucent slab with backlighting. Such slabs can be found in collections of both acrylic and quartz stone, and in various price categories. An example of an exclusive option is the Caesarstone ® Concetto collection, which contains unique slabs of cuts of semi-precious stones - tiger's eye, agate, pink and white quartz, amethyst, petrified wood and others.
Artificial stone is also used to decorate arches, door and fireplace portals.

Trends
Artificial stone has proven its practicality and uniqueness. Production technologies are being improved, the characteristics of the material are improved, and the color gamut is expanding even more. Global manufacturers of acrylic and quartz stone follow the current trends in design and strive to keep up with the times. The scope of application of artificial stone is also expanding. Along with countertops, it was used for the production of kitchen furniture facades.